Friday 24 September 2010

Mountain Biking in Gisburn Forest

Gisburn Forest
Gisburn Forest near Slaidburn in the Forest of Bowland contains miles of forest trails that can be used by walkers and cyclists but of the most interest to people on 2 wheels are the 2 specially constructed mountain bike trails, "The 8" and "Bottoms Beck". The first of these, known as the 8 because it makes up a figure of eight circuit is 18km in length and graded red (difficult) while Bottoms Beck is a blue graded (moderate) route of 9.5km that effectively follows the lower loop of the eight while missing out the technical sections and the biggest hills. The blue route is suitable for newcomers to the sport - such the author - but the red route was too tempting and while it is simply awesome in places it is graded "difficult" for a reason as I found out.


Setting out from the Cocklet Hill car park (free) - the bike trails all start here while the walks mainly start from the car park by Stocks Reservoir - I rode through the forest on a cool September morning following the directions for both routes. Directions here are easy with the red route - The 8 - marked with red arrows on the posts and the blue route - Bottoms Beck - marked with blue ones. For most of the first section they follow the same route. The actual routes start after a short ride from Cocklet Hill and begin with a left turn as they are one way. An easy dirt track led over undulating terrain until the first red arrow branched off to the right. The route became a narrow single track and climbed over a moderate hill but posed no difficulty and I was soon back on the wide trail which after emerging briefly on the road to cross the causeway by the Stocks Reservoir, began ascending a valley that had partially been cleared of trees. Where the blue arrows turn right to continue following the course of the valley, the stony track steepens ahead up the slopes leading to the forest above.


Some way up this hill my red markers sent me off up a rough narrow trail that climbed into the forest on the right side of the wide track. This section is called "Home Baked" and was built by local volunteers. It winds uphill while conveniently placed rocks conspire to unseat an unattentive rider and I recall one spot where the trail passes between trees spaced so that handlebars will - just - go through the gap! It's loads of fun but I met my limit on the descent through the woods on the far side. As I was enjoying the concentration of avoiding trees and rocks and the cool green shade of the forest after a hot climb, the path steepened ahead down rocky steps. Brakes on and feet down I bottled hurtling headlong down this and walked my bike down most of it before setting off again.


There are a few difficult moments on this route but this one I felt was the hardest that is unavoidabe. Soon I had emerged back on the blue path which seemed as wide as a motorway after my excursion into the trees and I followed this for a short way until a red marker appeared ahead at a junction where the main trail turns right. This next narrow section is not so hilly as the last one and follows a short way from the main track.


The technical features are boards and little bridges over streams with a fearsome looking narrow boardwalk marked as a "black" route. The black (severe) sections of the route are marked with skulls which somehow are not the most inviting of signs. The black sections are optional and needless to say I avoided them - along with a couple of the other features that I figured would see me in the water! This section though is short and fun. A short section of wide forest road (stones) led past a farm and up a steady ascent to the left. The right fork here is the way home - signposted - if you've had enough. The track climbed up to marvellous views and after curving to the left at the top of the climb red markers again sent me back onto the singletrack. This part is called Sheep Hill and begins with a ride over bare rocks with a choice of routes.


The track which was very rough in places with more large stones headed steadily towards Whelpstone Crag - the route's highest point. This section passed through some remote feeling terrain while the peak of Whelpstone Crag grew steadily closer as I negotiated sections of boardwalk, sudden steep rises and stones that made me think that a full suspension mountain bike would perhaps be a good idea. There was more excitement as I inadvertently strayed onto a black section below the crag itself. This was rougher than the hardest part of the climb on Salter Fell I'd done a few weeeks ago so I rapidly found the red route again which I knew that while not so easy, would be rideable - well mostly!


Beyond the crag I avoided the black grade descent - which I just knew would be scary and involve me falling off - and followed the main route down the Hully Gully section. This was the most enjoyable part so far and I was able to gather some speed while remaining confident of staying on the bike. The singletrack is banked at the turns and made for an awesome descent. Thankfully this wasn't too rough.


The route led down into a valley clearing where - after riding through a small river - there was a short climb followed by a descent of easier terrain with the option to choose to ride on the narrow or wider path in several places. This led back down to the forest road past the farm which marks the middle of the "8". Here I took the right fork this time and the blue and red arrows coincided to follow the same route.


The going was now easier on forest road and sections of blue grade singletrack. There was an enjoyable fast descent - again with banked paths - but any technical features here were easier and avoidable and I contemplated whether I could do the blue route - Bottoms Beck - with Daniel in his seat on my bike. Possibly with care on the descent and a short boardwalk. Could be bumpy though!


Pete Buckley September 2010


Essentials >>> How Far? 18km/11 miles >>> What's it like? Hilly with rough sections on singletrack and some technical features (red grade MTB trail) >>> Start and finish at Cocklet Hill car park, Gisburn Forest >>>

Wednesday 22 September 2010

A Rough Ride in Bowland

There are several easy rides to be posted here but this is not one of them. A 31 mile tour of the wildest parts of the Forest of Bowland Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty with a third of the route off road and 2 high passes makes for a fantastic day out but make no mistake - it's a tough one!

From the free car park behind Slaidburn village hall, I rode through the small village centre - I'd stayed at the
Bike route over salter fell in the forest of bowland
Youth Hostel here so the stone built houses and tiny village square were familiar - and turned right alongside the pub soon leaving the village behind. A short way up this lane there is a sign on the left for Pain Hill Farm - I wondered whether this was a sign of things to come but if this was Pain Hill it was fairly short and relatively painless to ride up. The route turns right up a lane called woodhouse lane and follows it around past several farm entrances drawing steadily higher towards the vast swell of the high moorlands ahead.

The end of the tarmac is marked by a gate and beyond this I turned sharp right along a gently rising track of broken concrete. I was happily riding under a false sense of security blissfully unaware of what lay ahead.

The track gradually swung back around to the left and lost the concrete surface becoming a rough and stony track that climbed across the heather moors. Ahead lay a vast swathe of lonely open hills into which the way led unerringly while across the valley to my right I spotted a deserted stone hut and an ancient sheepfold. The presence of the building simply accentuated the isolation.

My route now descended towards a river which was crossed by a single stone span which was adorned with a sign declaring it a weak bridge. These words do not encourage one to linger mid-stream and I was soon on the far side riding up the hardest section so far as the track rapidly veered towards mountaineering territory. This in fact turned out to be the toughest part of the whole route with large rocks and a loose surface conspiring to unseat any unwary rider on a gradient that must have been 20%. The grassy edge of the path here proved to offer the best chances of remaining on my bike.

The track soon became more rideable and after passing an old stone farmhouse on the left I stopped for some lunch at an obvious and comfortable rock by the path. Beyond this rock the track does become rough again for a while with large stones but it never quite reaches the bike wrecking level of the bit after the bridge and I was soon on the (relatively)level ground that marks the top of the Bowland Fells - a high moorland plataeu in places 500m above sea level but which still looks nothing like a forest on account of the lack of trees. The name of the Forest of Bowland comes from deer forest which was basically a hunting reserve in days gone by. Ahead lay the rough top of Ward's Stone - the highest point of the region and I had a sense of crossing the summit of Salter Fell and heading down the other side though there was no clear pass and the descent doesn't really start properly until after the gate is reached.

After the gate views opened out more the further I went with the wilderness-like landscape to the West forming a wide and deep valley through the hills leading towards the West Lancashire plains. The track this side is called Hornby Road and runs more or less north westwards through the hills though there is little chance of getting lost as long as you ignore the few tracks branching off.

Soon a beautiful vista began to widen ahead with the green lowlands rising steadily up to the Penninesin the East and the Yorkshire 3 Peaks dominating the view; Whernside the highest, Ingleborough with its familiar flat top and Pen y Ghent around to the right. Ahead lay the fields and woodlands of the Lune Valley backed by the jagged skyline of the Lake District mountains far off in the haze. It was towards these distant views that I rode - a long effortless freewheel that more than made up for the hardships endured in getting up here.

This section involved one or two rough parts but soon I was on a wide swathe of grass like a fairway on a golf course that led swiftly down between slopes of heather. The fairway comparison may be an exaggeration but there were no rocks or big bumps to negotiate and it was simply a case of relaxing in the saddle and enjoying the big skies and far off views.

Presently after a minor rough section I was suddenly back in civilisation - a gate led to a tarmac road and there was a farmhouse in front - High Salter it's called. Here a fast descent and a steep but short climb led me to a right turn leading steeply down through woodland to the old stonebuilt village of Wray.

The return route after turning right at the first junction in Wray leads along a pleasant quiet road that follows the valley floor towards Lower Bentham. After crossing the River Hindburn turn right - this is the main road direction anyway - and climb up again passing the farm of Four Score Acres on the left. The name is clearly visible. A mile or so after here turn right up the hill and follow the signs to Slaidburn rather than go to Lower Bentham which would be further to ride. If you do miss the turn and end up there, just folow for Slaidburn anyway.

On this road I met no traffic but had cause to stop and get my camera out in a hurry when I spotted a tiny roe deer stood stock still in the field by the road. Needless to say the deer ran off before I could take its photo. I soon came to a crossroads and followed the right turn to Slaidburn which led over the infamous Cross O' Greets Pass which at 468 metres or over 1500 feet is one of the major challenges on such bike races as the Tour of Britain.

The climb to the summit is gradual with the steepest section at the end though if you had gone via Lower Bentham the start would have been long and steep - this way it was more gradual. The views improve with altitude and the summit - unlike Salter fell - is a clear ridge leading back to the southern side of the Bowland Fells. The last bit was tough though near the end of the day and it was a relief to be speeding like the wind down the far side.

There is however a sting in the tail to this route - after the descent from Cross O' Greets, you cross a river and enter woods where the road abruptly climbs up again. This last hill is steep but not too long and once you are up it is downhill virtually all the way to Slaidburn to complete the circuit of the Forest of Bowland 31 miles later to end a hard but enjoyable and varied ride.

The off road sections are my favourite but a mountain bike is recommended for these - my hybrid fared OK but a road bike would struggle. There are hills throughout - not just the two main passes so if you see riding up hills as a challenge you'll love this but if you only like cycling on the flat - don't do it!

Pete Buckley July 2010

Essentials >>> How far is it? 31 miles/50km >>> What's it like? Hilly with some very rough parts - a third off road >>> Start and finish in Slaidburn village


Thursday 16 September 2010

The Lakeside Trail in Kielder Forest

Kielder Forest is located in the county of Northumberland on the southern edge of the Cheviot Hills just a few miles to the English side of the Border. The area is renowned for mountain biking trails of all levels of difficulty and several new routes have been opened recently.

The lakeside cycle trail around kielder waterPerhaps the best way to experience what this area has to offer is to ride the Lakeside Way that does the full 26 mile circuit of Kielder Water, the largest man made lake in Europe. The route is suitable for beginners to mountain biking, being a blue grade or moderate difficulty though it is hilly and doing it in 2 sections may be more suitable for family groups. The south shore is easier and has more facilities while the north shore has no motor access and the trail is far from flat. The previous occasion I was here the route had not been finished but this August I set out with my family to complete it.

Beginning at the car park up the hill from Kielder Castle the 4 of us rode down the road and onto the signposted path to the Minotaur Maze past the play area. Both of these are excellent for keeping kids entertained though today one of ours was setting the pace ahead while the other rode in comfort in his seat on the back of my bike.

Pass the maze and turn left at the end where a sign directs over the road to the Lakeside Way down a track that follows the upper reaches of the North Tyne River on the left. Following this dirt track down through the wooded riverbank soon brought us to the Lakeside Way itself which can be followed in either direction from here. We chose to ride in a clockwise direction tackling the North Shore first. This gives more opportunities for tired legs to abandon the ride later on - the north shore of Kielder Water is remote country with no motor access while all facilities and visitor centres are on the southern shore.

The trail was mainly a dirt track type surface which alternately climbed up to open country and descended into the dense woodland along the shore of Kielder Water itself. I really enjoyed riding along here though Jacqui was indignant at the fact that something that described itself as a lakeside route should so resemble an Alpine stage of the Tour de France!

To be fair the route is graded blue which is moderate in terms of mountain bike routes but not so moderate as far as family rides go. The main highlights apart from the spectacular views over Kielder Water and the joy of riding in remote country far from the noise and danger of traffic, are the artworks along the route. These are numerous and are described in the local information leaflets though for some of them you need to leave the trail and ride a short way to see them. The first of the art works we stopped at were the Janus Chairs; 3 moveable curved giant seats by the lakeside that you climb up into and are surprisingly comfortable vantage points from which to view the unspoilt scenery. Daniel was though more interested in a digger that had been left by a pathway undergoing restoration.

On again to another trackside artwork called Robin's Hut. Someone once said that if an object is made that does not serve a purpose then it must be art yet the Janus Chairs provide comfort and shelter from the rain; while Robin's Hut provided a pleasant sheltered lunch spot with views across Kielder Water to the Leaplish visitor centre on the far shore.

The Lakeside Way did follow the shoreline a little more closely now following it around several indentations meaning that Kielder Dam which was in view ahead was further than it had looked. After another uphill deviation we came all of a sudden to the Hawkhope car park which appeared through the trees following a downhill and an easy flat section.

The Lakeside Way is well signposted around this section and the route is much easier with much smaller hills and a smoother surface to ride on. After crossing the dam we stopped for a drink at the Tower Knowe visitor centre which was surprisingly quiet having ridden about 14 miles. We would continue to Leaplish where Jacqui had decided to call it a day and take Daniel to the play area while me and Josh finished the route to return with the car.

The well marked route to Leaplish follows the lake below the road and is an easier ride than the north shore with the steepest hill encountered on the way up to the Bull Crag Peninsula which also gives the best views. After Bull Crag one passes the ornately carved Freya's Hut which is directly opposite Robin's Hut where we had eaten lunch on the far shore of Kielder Water.

Leaplish is the main visitor centre here and there is a play area, cafe, birds of prey centre - displays are highly recommended - and even a gym and pool though as I was riding 26 miles today I was not in need of a gym. Jacqui tethered her bike to the fence of the play area where Daniel could run around and pretend to be either Thomas the Tank Engine or Sportacus - whichever he favoured today - and Jacqui could watch him. She found this prospect more appealing than the last 7 miles of the trail. Me and Josh set off through the car park and rejoined the Lakeside Way which descended to turn sharply onto a bridge over an inlet. This is where Josh crashed.

There was no serious injury but he could not go on so returned to the play area to await rescue with Daniel and Jacqui. I now set off to collect the car with some urgency.

After Leaplish the route regains some of its wilder qualities that characterise the early part of the ride and while there's a short section on a quiet tarmac road we're soon off on the forest trails again. The way follows the Lewis Burn Inlet to cross the fascinating wooden bridge that spans it at the bottom of a deep wooded valley. I was quite satisfied after the bridge as I ascended the hill on its far side to effortlessly fly past several people with expensive looking bikes and kit who appeared to be struggling with the hill. What made it funnier was that I was on my hybrid bike from Halfords with a child's seat on the back though I may not have been quite so fast had the seat still been occupied!

The last part of this trail was a joy. I saw hardly anyone and I rode on a delightful forest path through patterns of light and shade made by the newly emerged late afternoon sun shining through the trees. Sooner than expected I had arrived at the place we had joined the trail earlier in the day so turned left this time to follow the North Tyne the short distance to Kielder Castle. The last hill to the car park was a fitting challenge to finish with - Jacqui would have hated that - and I was soon on my way back to Leaplish.

Pete Buckley August 2010

Essentials >>> How far? 26 miles >>> What's the route like? Some hills, well marked easy trail >>> Start and finish at Kielder Castle