A Welsh Weekend Adventure - 2 - Pen y Gwryd to Glyder Fawr

Between the rugged defile of Pen y Pass and the wild spaces of the Ogwen Valley rises the ridge of peaks known as the Glyderau or Glyders. The area is as rocky and precipitous on the Ogwen side as it is rough and uncompromising on the other and includes such exciting routes as the Cribyn Ridge,

Wonderful view of the Nantgwynant

Bristly Ridge and Tryfan; some of the finest routes in Snowdonia. This route - which should not be underestimated for all its short distance - ventures though the rough terrain north of Pen y Pass to reach Glyder Fawr, which at 3279 ft or 999 m marks the high point of the ridge.

The second day of this short adventure in Snowdonia began with a chilly morning the campsite at Capel Curig; the previous night's rain and wind had given way to clear skies and temperatures of minus 2 to 3 degrees Celsius around dawn, leaving my micro camper coated in a layer of ice. After shivering through breakfast, I made the short journey to Pen y Gwryd and the cold began to give way to a day of glorious autumnal sunshine as I set out for Pen y Pass. Why didn't I drive up and park there?

The start of the path to Pen y Pass

Because it's £10 a day if you can get a space as opposed to £4 near Pen y Gwryd and free a quarter mile down the road.

For that same reason a few Snowdon-bound hikers were walking up the road but far preferable to that is the footpath from just opposite the bus turning area just past the hotel. It's an easy well made path that brings you out at the car park but also gives a false sense of security about what's to come...

After crossing the road, a path leads up on the opposite side; steeply at first before easing into grassy terrain and becoming less distinct as the lonely tarn of Llyn Cwmffynon is seen on the right. It's hard to believe here that the road is so close behind as we seem to have entered the wilderness here but most of the walkers from Pen y Pass are heading up Snowdon on the other side of

Snowdon (2nd from R) and its range from the rest stop 

the valley.

A boggy area was met after a slight descent and the path faded in and led me me generally straight on (in a north westerly direction) with the tarn on my right, until it faded out of existence altogether and my way led through rough country, gradually climbing towards the ridge line ahead. Vestiges of a path here and there are probably little more than sheep tracks and it's more a case of finding the driest route, which eventually led me to bear left, (more to the west) up the rough slopes towards the higher ground.

The tussock grass, bogs and low rocky outcrops make for hard going and if you plan to do this route, when you reach the boggy depression

Y Garn and the sea from the top of Glyder Fawr

near the tarn, bear more to the left where a more distinct path does appear. It's no drier in the lower sections but is much easier to follow and was to be my descent route.

When it seemed as though the struggle uphill would go on forever, there was a sudden change in the terrain; the steeply sloping rough country through which I had been travelling, opened out and a path led northwards over a gently sloping plateau towards the summit of Glyder Fawr which didn't now look so far away. A short rest followed by an easy walk, led me in warm autumn sunshine to the stony crown of the Glyders where the landscape changed yet again into one of shattered boulders and grey tors that stood up high above their surroundings. One of these indeed made the highest point of the peak at 999 metres or 3279 feet and was reached by an easy scramble up.

Rock formations on the summit

This is a wonderful viewpoint on a day like this and the short video below has an all round summit panorama, which includes Glyder Fach and Tryfan eastwards along the ridge, Y Garn in the opposite direction and the Snowdon group rising to the South. My descent route retraced my steps off the summit to where I had reached the plateau but I continued more to the West to follow the top of this broad ridge down. Eventually a more consistent path was reached that I followed down over steep ground at first and then once again over the wet terrain to my start point.

This is a short route from Pen y Pass being a return journey of just 7 km which increases to 11 km (7 miles) if started from Pen y Gwryd.  The

Looking towards the start point from near the summit

additional distance from there just adds a pleasant walk to the harder going of the off path sections as well as saving at least £6 off parking which can be converted into beer at the pub - but not if driving! The total ascent is about 725 m from Pen y Gwryd and 650 m from Pen y Pass. There's also an option to follow the ridge to Glyder Fach and descend by a good path via Llyn Caseg-fraith to Pen y Gwryd, which is a walk of just over 11 km though the section between the two Glyder peaks is very rough going with boulders and a short scramble to negotiate. In these hills, modest distances can be deceptive.

On balance the best way up Glyder Fawr is by the Cribyn Ridge from Llyn Ogwen on the northern side, descending by the Devil's Kitchen path. I'll post that on here when I do it again though there is a description of the walk from the last time. Looking at the date on there I'd say it was about time I did it again as it was good.

Check out a glorious day on the Glyders - well worth it for the summit views...

If you missed it, here's the Day 1 post...
  The Wild Side of Snowdon

and here's the film of day one in some very different weather - check out the Dr Who time vortex effect near the end...

A Welsh Weekend Adventure - 1 - The Wild Side of Snowdon...

The last weekend of October saw me heading back to North Wales for another short adventure in the

mountains of Snowdonia. It was a chance to make a couple more videos and try out my new camping setup in out of season conditions, though while the first night's storms posed no problem in the micro

camper, (some people did struggle under canvas) the minus two Celsius recorded on the second night was decidedly chilly and required double sleeping bags. My chosen site was Dolgam at Capel Curig - a long time favourite of mine and the chosen objectives were Snowdon by the South Ridge and Glyder Fawr from near the Pen y Gwryd hotel. Also worth a mention are the fish and chips from the Old Shop in Betws Y Coed - an integral part of my outings here.

Below is detailed day one of the weekend, with a link today two to day two at the end. Posts here will now include - as well as the usual photos - video clips I made on the way which can also be viewed at my new You Tube channel. Enjoy...

The route from Rhyd-Ddu up the South Ridge of Snowdon is probably my favourite way to the top of

Snowdon from Rhyd-Ddu

the the highest mountain in Wales; it's varied and interesting and finishes with the exciting but problem-free ridge of Bwlch Main leading on towards the summit. Also, the crowds of tourists who don't take the train usually climb Snowdon from Llanberis or Pen y Pass and avoid this much quieter and wilder side of the mountain. My descent was by the route called the Rhyd Ddu path which lies a little to the west of the ascent route.

Having left my camp at Capel Curig I arrived at Rhyd-Ddu not far from the village of Beddgelert. Leaving the car park (£5 per day) I set out crossing the Welsh Highland Railway and in five minutes turning right through a gate to the open mountainside. A wide and easy path soon led to a fork in the trail where the Rhyd-Ddu path leaded left - this would be my descent route - and I headed straight on directly towards the obvious col or saddle between Snowdon and the lower peak of Yr

Mining was once in evidence here

Aran.

Just before the col, the path is overlooked by ruined stone buildings that resemble something out of a Tolkien novel, but they are actually remnants of the quarrying and mining industry from this region's past. Also evident are several deep chasms that show evidence of quarrying but beware - some of these are around a hundred feet deep so don't fall down one! The path itself is safe though and soon leads to the col where I had some food and water behind the wall and out of the chilly breeze, before continuing the journey. From the col the main path is seen coming up from Bethania and if you start from there, returning by the Watkin Path would be another good circular hike. For reference, the col between Snowdon and Yr Aran is at about 510 m or 1700 feet.

Views on the South Ridge

The ascent of Yr Aran (747 m) to the south is also well worth the effort but my route headed up the South Ridge on a good path with stone steps up the early steep parts of the slope. It was only once up here, that I saw the first other hikers of the day, milling around on the col where I'd just rested. This really is the wild side of Snowdon and following the easy path as it climbs the ridge one can really appreciate one's surroundings in peace and quiet which would be less easy on the more popular trails.

About half way up, a rocky step in the ridge is reached that is surmounted by an easy scramble over the rocks on its left (western) side. The way is obvious and adds some excitement to the route though it's not difficult. Above the ridge continues in easy fashion with ever expanding views far to the south and closer up of the rugged heart of

Y Lliwedd from the South Ridge

Snowdon and its surrounding peaks. My own views were increasingly obscured by lowering cloud and some light rain showers at this point, though the weather cleared slightly as I reached the end of the Bwlch Main ridge at about 3050 feet.

Here the character of the walk changed again and a narrow crest led on towards the summit of Snowdon which was still obscured by cloud somewhere ahead. This is the best part of the walk and while on first sight it might look daunting from some aspects, there is a good path and even on the crest the way is without difficulty, though after winter snow this would not be the case.

Hiker on the Bwlch Main

The Rhyd-Ddu path climbed up the slope to the left to join my route at the start of this section and the two routes converged to cross the Bwlch Main. At the far end a stone pillar marks the descent by the Watkin Path and the Snowdon Horseshoe route where it continues via Y Lliwedd to Pen y Pass. A rough but steady climb now brought me up the last couple of hundred feet to where the summit station of the Snowdon Mountain Railway appeared out of the swirling mists. Just beyond the station and its attendant crowds of tourists rose Y Wyddfa, the highest point of Wales at 1085 m or 3560 feet above sea level, which is attained by rocky steps behind the station. I might have had the trail to myself but not so the summit,

Looking down from Bwlch Main

and I now shared this lofty belvedère with both fellow walkers and train passengers who had arrived here by the power of steam.

The view had vanished but the winds of Snowdon were producing a strange effect; a tunnel through the cloud had appeared on the eastern side of the peak that brought to mind the time vortex in Doctor Who - if you watch the video you will see what I mean. It was likely caused by the wind channeling over and around the peak and when Clara Oswald failed to appear, I decided to make my way back down.

My descent route today lay back over the Bwlch Main ridge and down to the right at its far end on the Rhyd-Ddu path where it joined my ascent route. This path - as its name would suggest - leads back to Rhyd-Ddu this time down the ridge known as

The Wild Side of Snowdon

Llechog which is a broad and stony shoulder of the mountain that overlooks the wild Cwm Clogwyn to the north. This path can also be used in ascent though I prefer doing the circuit this way around as the South Ridge is the more interesting way of the two. In total the walk is about 12 km with just over 900 m of ascent and descent.

Waiting to see if the Tardis would appear!

And here's Day 2...
 Pen y Gwryd to Glyder Fawr

and the film of day 1 - check out the Dr Who Time Vortex effect near the end...

Dolgoch Falls in North Wales

Here's a post with a difference from the usual fayre of these pages but a few days' camping with the

The early part of the walk to Nant Gwernol

kids in Wales was no less of an adventure than a trip to the hills. It was a trip to the hills after all - to the Fferm Cedris camp site at the foot of Cader Idris - we just did different stuff! Our campsite was in a remote area but it's one I like and there's plenty to do that doesn't cost a fortune - even with the weather as it was.

Some of the best natural sights of this area - other than Cader Idris itself which remained hidden in rain clouds today - are the Nant Gwernol Ravine and the Dolgoch Falls. Both are set in deep natural woodland that could be described as temperate rainforest, and are easily accessible from Abergynolwyn village and the car park at Dolgoch respectively. Forget the car though - far and away the best way to experience this area is on the Talyllyn Railway

My three fellow adventurers at the falls

which winds its way seven and a quarter miles from Nant Gwernol in the hills (free parking at nearby Abergwnolwyn Station) to Tywyn on the Cardigan Bay coast. The waterfalls are a short walk (even for younger kids) from Dolgoch Station.

We began at Abergynolwyn with a walk of about a mile to Nant Gwernol - simply follow the path signposted from just below the station - this follows the railway alongside fields until it crosses the line to reach a wide forest track. Turn right up the hill and follow the track as it curves back around again to head roughly north east through the forest. Presently the track heads more to the right and downhill into a spectacular wooded ravine leading to the railway station of Nant Gwernol. The station can also be reached over the bridge if coming up from the village but you would still have to walk the last bit. If you don't like or are unable to walk then simply take the train up here first. The station in its spectacular setting is well worth seeing instead of just going straight to Tywyn.

Our train arrived to the excitement of the children and some of the adults present - there is something special about a steam train - and we boarded to journey back to Abergynolwyn and on via Dolgoch to

The fascinating valley above the main fall

Tywyn which takes about 45 minutes not including the wait at Abergynolwyn. The beach at Tywyn followed by fish and chips were the order of the day as the coastal climate allowed the sun to make an appearance but that is beyond the remit of these pages.

On our return when the weather was a little better, we left the train at Dolgoch to walk to the falls - a trip of about ten minutes each way. The path is easy but there is a steepish climb up to the upper part of the falls that people unused to outdoor activities may find harder than my six, nine and nineteen year olds did; sprinting up the slope like mountain goats. The falls themselves - especially after the rain - were more than worth the walk plunging from steep wooded slopes into a deep shadowy pool with a

Viaduct over the ravine by Dolgoch Station

roaring sound that contrasted with the more serene setting higher up where the river flows between moss grown banks under the thick forest canopy - a scene  that could be right out of Middle Earth or Narnia.

Please note that there are some steep drop offs which are protected by fencing so while the path is suitable for older children and sensible dogs, toddlers and more impetuous canines should be kept on a lead! There is also a play area at Abergynolwyn by the car park and below the station building. Here's some more information on the Talyllyn Railway and below is a short video of the trip.

A Short Adventure in Scotland - Ben Lawers and the Glen Ogle Trail

Once upon a time on a family holiday to the Highlands I hiked up Ben Lawers with Dad - we went up the normal route from the National Trust for Scotland car park - a route which has the unfortunate reputation for being crowded in the summer months - to stand on the highest point in Tayside and the highest peak in the country south of Ben Nevis. As I recall there were a fair few tourists heading up the hill but despite that it was still a good day out.

Rainbow at Strathyre

One of the reasons this route is popular is the fact that the start point is almost 500 metres above sea level and leaves an ascent completely free of difficulty to the summit which at 1214m or 3984ft would be a much longer undertaking - if still an easy one - from the shores of Loch Tay.

So it was that after a drive in the rain from my campsite at Strathyre, stopping off to see the Falls of Dochart in Killin; there are some things that are better in this weather - I arrived at the infamous visitor centre which turned out not to be there. Apparently the building was demolished a few years back and the site returned to the wild. There is still a car park - on the other side of the road - and information about the area but if you're after a coffee it's back into Killin! Personally I think it's better now as I remember

The start of the path

the old place being very busy. Anyway - it's is on the mountain road between Loch Tay and the Bridge of Balgie over the hill in isolated Glen Lyon. With the weather as it was there was no sign of any crowds today, and the rain had stopped so I prepared to set off. Two footpaths are signposted from here; one to Ben Lawers and another to Meall nan Tarmachan - the start of the Tarmachan Ridge route which I'll do next time if we get some good weather up here.

The route I followed is initially through the nature reserve on a path known as the Edramucky Trail where can be seen a wide range of arctic alpine type flora and fauna which thrives in this area protected from deer and grazing sheep. The trees too are returning and I was amazed to see trees at around 2000 feet above sea level this far north - a height level with the highest parts of Dartmoor or the Peak District.

The last of the trees

The route from the nature reserve - far from being crowded - was extremely enjoyable and is clearly marked all the way to the summit. In fact I had planned a more varied route involving Beinn Ghlas and Meall Corranaich but as the weather made a return in the form of heavy showers and hill fog, I opted to remain on the main path. Beyond the wooded area, the path climbs past some old shepherds' huts known as shielings and turns sharply to the left up the grassy valley of Coire Odhar. At this point the path via Beinn Ghlas carries straight on but I followed the broad trail to the bealach or col at the head of Coire Odhar which is at about 850 metres.

The col is in a fine position with the path heading through towards the Glen Lyon side and the summit route continuing its steady climb to the right without losing much height. I had wanted to

Meall nan Tarmachan

head up the nearby Munro, Meall Corranaich which rises on the other (western) side of the col on my return to this point though this was not to happen due to the deteriorating weather. The far side was sheltered from the wind for a while but the rain now came down again and mist obscured the summit ahead. This section of path though is remarkably easy following the contours of the hill in a gentle ascent to about 1000 metres re crossing the main ridge of the Ben Lawers group this time overlooking Loch Tay - or would have done if you could see it.

Here one rejoins the route coming over Beinn Ghlas which is the one we followed that first time in these hills and begins the final climb up to Ben Lawers. Again the route is nowhere difficult but this is the first part that seems like hard work as the path climbs steeply up the final slopes which today were battered by Westerly gales bringing rain and increasing cold as height was gained. The Met Office website had informed me to expect temperatures of 3 or 4 Celsius at this altitude with

The col at about 850 metres 

windchill down to -4 which is just twenty five for those of you on the other scale. Bearing in mind that it was late July, it just goes to show the value of being prepared in the Highlands! I have seen it snow in August at this height in the Cairngorms and but it felt much colder today on Ben Lawers.

A short rest on the summit with lunch behind the cairn and sheltered from the wind was a welcome relief from the wind and rain but it was not a place to linger today so I was soon heading back down the way I had come to the warmer climes below. The short film below gives some idea of the conditions encountered on this walk - perhaps the day was better suited to looking at the region's waterfalls.

The following morning I had planned a return to the hills above Killin and Loch Tay, to climb Meall

Loch Earn seen from the cycle path

nan Tarmachan and follow the Tarmachan Ridge route back to the non existent visitor centre but I awoke to the rain beating on the roof of my Berlingo Camper and such plans gradually evaporated as the weather failed to clear. The Tarmachan Ridge is apparently not difficult but is exciting with some scrambles and is more of an undertaking than simply following a wide path as I had done to Ben Lawers. I figured that being able to at least see the route ahead would be an advantage here! A plan to head up Ben Lui was likewise put on hold til the next time. Besides, boots and socks had not dried out from yesterday's venture and while I had spare clothes I didn't have a spare pair of boots.

Instead, during a lull in the weather, I got on my bike and headed to the old railway track that heads through Glen Ogle in the direction of Killin. It's a track I've done before and is one of my favourite

Lochan Lairig Cheile at the top of Glen Ogle

rides anywhere. Here's a full account of the Glen Ogle Cycle Path with photos from my last visit but I have added a video of the ride below along with a short clip of the Falls of Dochart in Killin and my walk up Ben Lawers.

The track itself is part of the National Cycle Network Route 7 aka the northern half of the Lochs and Glens Route from Glasgow to Inverness. The section north from Lochearnhead through Glen Ogle over the old railway viaducts is one of the highlights of that route and from Strathyre to Lochearnhead isn't bad either all being off road with some nice forest trails around Balquhidder. Incidentally, the ride south from Strathyre is also highly recommended; the first night here I rode down along the shore of Loch Lubnaig as far as the Falls of Leny (close to Callander) but failed to take a camera so you'll have to take my word for it. In all the whole way from Callander to Killin is on traffic free paths and would make a fine day out - well it would in better weather.

On this trip I stayed at the Immervoulin campsite at Strathyre which I can highly recommend - facilities are excellent and it's a big open field with plenty of room to camp - I'll be back soon. Finally here are the videos from the trip - I've overcome the difficulties of filming from a moving bike without falling off but we're still working on getting the sound better for all weather filming - probably need to invest in a decent mic for starters...