Travels in Norway - from the Fjords to the Mountains

These two posts tell the story of a journey through Norway made a few years ago from the fjords to the mountains and the ascent of two peaks including the country's highest. A couple of the photos were from a subsequent trip as photos of fog and snow don't make for a good blog post but I hope to visit Norway again and bring back some higher quality photos of one of my favorite hiking locations.

There was something eerie and primeval about the sound which was instantly recognizable even to someone who hadn't heard it before. More a wail than a howl, it rose and fell in the twilight of the northern night and was answered by another - a little closer but still some distance away - somewhere in the trees...

Wolves have lived in the forests of Norway for far longer than humans though in recent times they have been hunted almost to extinction and today only a few packs remain. As I later found out, the southern wolves here were normally much further east than this so I was lucky to hear them at all. Perhaps the late cold spell had driven them further west. I set off through the trees back to my cabin feeling a sense of reassurance that this enduring symbol of the wild was still out there.

A few days later, a chilly grey morning had seen me driving down a deserted road in a light rain from my cabin between Sogndal and Kaupanger in the county of Sogn og Fjordane in western Norway. I had driven past the cloud topped Storehaugen Mountain and followed the wide and gently winding road past walls of endless pines and rocky bluffs that rose above the glassy waters of the Sognefjord. Mine had seemed the only car on the road at that early hour.

The Sognefjord near Kaupanger. The waterfall is over 700 ft high

Not long into my journey I pulled in at the side of the road to get a better view of a vast waterfall on the far side of the fjord. The falls which are called the Feigumfossen were awesome though such was the scale of this landscape that no sound could be heard across the fjord. After the recent rain the main fall which is 218 metres in height was fed by several tributary falls that dropped from the grey cloud ceiling from something over 600 metres or 2000 feet above the still water. The sense of peace here was absolute with the silent cascade opposite and the air motionless beneath the sheltering mountain walls. The rain too had stopped and a wintry blanket of white coated the higher hills where the cloud was starting to lift while ragged swathes of grey mist clung to the mountainsides below adding to the atmospheric nature of the view.

It was time to move on again though. The dark Sognefjord became narrower as I approached its end and I was soon passing through the tiny hamlet of Skjolden at the extremity of the inlet. Here I passed some small wooden cabins - known as hytter - that faced the mirror-calm water and to where a brightening sky was framed between the walling mountains. Somewhere down there about 100 miles away was the open sea and this - the largest of Norway's fjords - is still tidal here despite the distance inland I was. The fjords themselves were carved out by the glaciers of the last ice age to a vast scale and unimaginable depth. The Sognefjord is in places over 4000 feet or 1200m deep which was about as high as the mountain walls were above it - a fact that I preferred not to think about on the occasions I had crossed it on the ferry! These huts you see by the water's edge are a traditional way of spending holidays in Norway and they originate from fishing and boating huts though are now to be found in the mountains and forests as well as by water. The more basic ones can be very good value for money in a country not known for bargains.

As I left the fjord behind, the landscape became even more dramatic - forbidding even. The road narrowed and followed a rushing river through low trees and meadow littered with boulders entering a narrow rocky defile or chasm in the mountains. Silvery ribbons of water cascaded from the clouds down vast grey crags seemingly thousands of feet high which threatened to block out the daylight. Now a layer of mist hung in the chill air just above the flat valley floor. If Tolkien's Stone Giants or the trolls of Norwegian legend did exist, it is here that they would be found.

As if in response to this sombre scene, the road suddenly emerged into the much more open meadows of Fortun which consists of a small group of colourful wooden houses situated in a meadow beneath steep and wooded mountain walls. The tiny village at first appeared to be the end of the road but the thin ribbon of tarmac could now be seen climbing the precipitous slopes behind the houses in a series of giddy hairpin bends. This was the infamous Turtagro road I had been told about. Climbing 2600 feet from Skjolden to Turtagro, the road was infamous for none other than Dutch Caravanners! Apparently they choose this route across the mountains unaware of the severity of this stretch of road and I had I began my ascent. Being used to the roads in the Lake District I found it OK and was very relieved not to meet any caravans coming down the single track route and so began to doubt their existence. Perhaps the chap at the campsite had been winding me up. The climb seemed to last forever as the road ascended to and fro up under the trees on the steep slope but the hairpins - though steep - were not as terrifying as Cumbria’s Hard Knott Pass. Soon the gradient began to ease and as I rounded one of the last bends there it was - no - not a troll though that would almost have surprised me less...

The look of apprehension verging on terror on the driver's face in the car coming the other way was as clear as the large 5 or 6 birth touring caravan he was towing. That guy in Sogndal hadn't been winding me up after all! The road here was not so narrow so I was spared reversing down 2500 feet of winding single track road and in my mirror I just caught sight of the Dutch NL sticker on the back of the caravan as I passed.

I left the trees and the steep slopes behind as the road entered a wide open region of grassy meadows and great craggy rocks. The Turtagro Hotel overlooked this wild scene and in fact was the only building of ant size in sight, Turtagro not being a village as such. I pulled onto the car park and went inside. The duty manager who was also a mountain guide - many are in places like this - told me that to ascend the nearby Fannaraki a peak of 2068 metres, I would not need his services or any special kit which cleared up some confusion. My map showed a path to a hut on the summit but my guidebook which was otherwise very informative suggested that ropes would be needed. They were possibly referring to Store Skagastolstind - Norway's third highest peak whose icy rock spire towered into the clouds to the right of Fannaraki and which does involve more difficult climbing.

Norway's third highest peak - Skagastolstind 2403m - from Turtagro

The Turtagro Hotel itself was frequented by William Slingsby the English climber who made first ascents of many of Norway's mountains - including Store Skagastolstind - and the reading room here is full of fascinating mountain literature and faded photographs of the adventurers of old - including Slingsby. The manager told me that more recently there was an English climber who he referred to as simply "The Englishman" who came here to stay every year - I can't blame him! Anyway it was time I did some adventuring of my own so I left some of my gear and set off for Fannaraki. I crossed the road which was still empty - not even any more caravans from Holland - and took the path leading off it to the right a short distance up the hill.

The trail is a well marked track that heads off eastwards into a wonderfully remote valley called the Helgedalen, passing some deserted stone farmhouses and staying almost level for the first couple of miles before beginning a gradual traversing ascent of the slopes at the head of the valley. After climbing to the left, the main path resumed its eastward course which leads up and over the pass to the hut of Skogadalsboen in the Utledalen - the next valley to the East. My route however now parted from the wide track and crossed a rushing stream to begin a steep and relentless climb. A nice leisurely flattish walk is fine but it meant I now had 4000 feet to climb in not much over a mile.

The weather had now cleared somewhat though what the weathermen refer to as occasional showers were still moving up the valley and now was one of those occasional moments. The snow dusted top of Fannaraki had vanished in the cloud as had the jagged spires of Store Skagastolstind behind as I toiled my way up heathery slopes so steep that I could touch the ground with my outstretched hand - the path was easy though. As I got higher the cloud came down to surround me in its chill dampness and the heather gave way to rocks and bilberry. At least the angle of the slope had eased a little. Patches of snow began to appear.

The summit of Fannaraki 2068m when the sun was shining

For a short while I lost the path and found myself kicking steps up a shallow snow gully until I emerged at its stony top and found traces of path again. The cloud cleared a little to reveal the way ahead up a slope of snow covered rocks and a view across the valley to the misty serrated peaks and newly whitened glaciers of Store Skagastolstind and its range, the Hurrungane. The peak is 2403 metres - just short of 8000 feet - high and on its far side the range drops in spectacular fashion to near sea level in the mysterious woods of Vettismorki - a slope of alpine proportions indeed - this side of the range is impressive enough. Onwards I went and ever upwards. This reminded me of the tourist route on Ben Nevis - endless miles of stones - though unlike the Ben, I seemed to be the only person on this mountain. I now began to notice the altitude a little with a shortness of breath slowing my pace. Stopping for a rest I could see that I was level with the nearby peak of Steindalsnosi which my

Looking towards Galdhopiggen 2469m from Fannaraki

map revealed to be 1900 metres - before it vanished into another cloud and it started to snow.

The slope eased out and became a bouldery plateau dappled with snow patches and I carefully negotiated the rocks until the uphill ran out and the 2068m summit was in front of me. It was important after crossing snow to clear your boots of the stuff before walking on rocks - an accident up here wouldn't make for the best of days out. The view was like that I’ve normally had from the Ben too - mist and cold damp rocks. I climbed Fannaraki again the following September when these photos were taken and the view is actually one of the best I've ever seen but alas - not today. I ate my lunch in the summit hut where the guardian told me I was the only one to climb the mountain that day, though the first week in June was still early in the season. He told me to take care on the descent

Looking into the Jotunheim mountains from Fannaraki

and I returned to the cold outside where the weather had now developed into a minor snowstorm though it rapidly improved as I descended and my trek back along the Helgedalen to Turtagro was in pleasantly warm early evening sunshine with the golden light and long shadows typical of these northern latitudes. I took my time as getting benighted here isn't an issue at this time of year - I'd been able to read a book at midnight a few nights ago with no lights on. We're not quite far north enough for the midnight sun but it never goes dark in June.

The following morning would see me driving north over the arctic plateau of the Sognefjell to the small alpine village of Boverdal from where I would attempt to ascend the peak of Galdhopiggen which at 2469 metres or 8110 feet is the highest mountain in Norway and in northern Europe. The road - known as the Sognefjellsvegen - climbs from 800m at Turtagro to 1434m at its highest point as it makes its way across a rugged wilderness dotted with small lakes some of which are frozen well into the summer.  Huge banks of snow follow the roadside in places where it has been dug out by the snowploughs and as it heads higher it is overlooked by a much less easy side of Fannaraki - a glaciated and alpine mountain face - before beginning its descent to the woods on eastern side of Norway. We enter a land very different to the fjords of the west but one which has a wild and rugged beauty of its own. The Sognefjell itself was crossed by Heinrik Ibsen in 1862 and helped to inspire the story of Peer Gynt and in those days the route was by a track marked out with cairns; the road itself not being built until 1938... To part two of this story >>>

The Peer Gynt Road, a Strange House and the Highest Mountain in Norway...

Part two of my journey in Norway takes us over the pass that inspired Peer Gynt and out of the Fjord country...

This country really is a pleasure to drive in - some of Europe's best roads and no cars on them! I'd crossed the Sognefjell road from Turtagro and was now heading down through a valley reminiscent of the Llanberis Pass in North Wales but on a much vaster scale. Looking at some of the rocks above the roadside, it was easy to see where the tales of giants and trolls came from.

I wondered what a wonderful place this was as I drove past a camp site at the end of a clear blue lake. Another car passed me going the other way - the first I'd seen in over 20 miles. The road did a sharp right some way after the lake and kept on with its steady descent of the broad, forested Boverdal Valley. On the far side, huge mountains rose steeply into the clouds, snow clinging to their upper reaches and the air almost sparkled such was its clarity.

The beautiful forested Boverdal valley east of the Sognefjell

Having descended into the pine and birch woods, the road wound back to the left and continued its gradual descent towards Boverdal; the river now on the left. The valley began to level out by the hamlet of Elveseter where I pulled in for a drink, having neglected to put a water bottle within reach.

The small village had a strange atmosphere and on closer inspection the single street appeared deserted. I went towards the nearest building - a large wooden structure in traditional Norwegian style that appeared to be a hotel or guest house. Going in through the front door which was unlocked brought me into a large spacious hall with wooden walls that was well lit by the Sun slanting through some high windows. The place was silent and there was clearly no one in attendance. I shouted a "hello" but my voice fell flat on the still air - there was no reply.

The building had the feel of somewhere whose occupants were absent but not far away - dust particles hung in the air which smelt of sun warmed wood but there was no damp or mustiness. I decided that if I couldn't buy a bottle of water I would look for a tap.

Crossing the wide hall I began up the stairs at its far end though all the time there was an almost overpowering feeling that I was being watched – by whom I did not know - but the feeling never went away until I’d driven away. There was an almost surreal atmosphere in here that reminded me of the part in CS Lewis's Voyage of the Dawn Treader where Lucy enters the magician's house on the island - if by the way you haven’t read The Chronicles of Narnia then you should do so. The stairs brought me up to an equally large and open room containing a table running almost its full length with places set before many chairs.

The food had not yet been served but the placemats and cutlery was all neatly set out and I caught sight of a bright sparkle at the end of the table - sunlight from the window was shining on - yes it was a crystal decanter of fresh water. At the risk of disturbing whoever had laid the table I poured some into a glass and drank. Any noise seemed magnified in the silence of the room but nobody rushed in to investigate and having found what I was looking for I returned down the stairs and left before the absent diners arrived.

My thoughts were of elves and enchantments as I left Elveseter but a more rational explanation would be that the place had been occupied by a large group who had all gone out together. If they were self catering I suppose that would account for the lack of staff but it was still very strange.

I set out again down the road through the trees towards the village of Boverdal which wasn't far now and I presently reached the road which was sign posted right to Juvasshytta. Stopping to open the gate, I continued up the single track lane which rose steeply up the tree covered hillsides, before stopping again to pay a small toll to drive to Juvasshytta.Once above the tree line, the road became a dirt track and began to climb in earnest, the views expanding down the Boverdal valley and across to the cloud topped mountains opposite. I drove carefully along a section with a steep 3000 foot drop to one side, which always gives added incentive to pay attention to the road, before climbing the final curves to the flat stony expanse of plateau where Juvasshytta was to be seen just beneath the flat grey cloud base.

Arctic landscapes 6000 ft above sea level near Juvasshytta

The word hytta or hytter as previously mentioned means hut or cabin and in the mountains they were usually the residences in days gone by, of the farmers who moved up the mountainsides to tend their animals during the summer grazing season. This hut or hostel is set in an arctic landscape about 6000 feet above sea level on a broad treeless plateau which didn't look at all like good grazing on account of the lack of grass. I was amazed to see a bus in the car park. That must have been fun, getting up here! Braving the cold wind, I went into the warmth of the hostel to meet the guide and fellow climbers. We turned out to be a group of 7 or 8 led by a local guide who was based up here.

Norway's highest mountain had remained stubbornly hidden in cloud up until now, but as we set off over the plateau Glittertind, the runner up by 11m, appeared through the clearing mists followed by Galdhopiggen much nearer on our side of the valley. The peak reminded me of Snowdon in shape and rose just over 2000 feet above the hostel. We headed more or less towards it, climbing gradually across acres of stones soon walking through snow which became deeper as we progressed. To everyone's joy the clouds rapidly dispersed, the June sun shining warmly as we reached the glacier known as Styggebreen. The name means dangerous or hazardous glacier - so called because it's one of the few Norwegian glaciers remaining snow covered and therefore with hidden crevasses, year round. Roped together, we set off over the glacier. The route was marked by poles and led in a straight line towards the right of the peak.

We succeeded in crossing the Styggebreen without any of us falling down a crevasse and unroped for the final climb to the top. The route led along below a ridge, past a small glacier called Piggbreen to our left and up over easy rocks taking care where the Sun had melted some of the snow which had re frozen forming hard ice in the shaded cracks and hollows. The final pyramid was snow and though not difficult, I did begin to feel the altitude slightly. We were after all at 8000 feet and kicking steps up the slope was fairly hard work. I made good progress though, encouraged by 2 or 3 of my companions.

Like the chap at Turtagro I seemed to have become known as 'The Englishman' by my fellow hikers - they were all Norwegian and Swedish - apparently there's not many of us around in these parts and I was again reminded of how friendly the Norwegians are towards us. If a conversation was being conducted in Norwegian, they would revert to English if I was in earshot so I could join in. Like the Dutch, the Norwegians mostly speak English as well or better than we do.

The viewing indicator on top of Galdhopiggen

Breathlessly, I made the top, stopping at the viewing indicator to take photos. The cloud had all but gone and we were treated to a view extending past Fannaraki and the jagged Skagastolstind to the South all the way up to distant Snohetta in the North, perhaps 100 miles away. East of us the countless peaks of the Jotunheim gathered in white topped rows like waves on the sea while on the western horizon lay the flat white miles of the Jostedalsbreen ice field - the largest in continental Europe.

Closer at hand the summit fell away in a sheer drop to glaciers at our feet. We had clearly come up the easy way! There is another walkers route up here, from Spiterstulen accessed from further down the valley past Boverdal. You don't need a guide for that one - as long as you don't get lost, that is - there being no glacier crossing. The route however is much longer and involves more ascent than

Looking towards Fannaraki from Galdhopiggen 2469m

from Juvasshytta. We signed the visitors' book in the small hut just under the summit and began our way back down. I followed a couple of the party who were skiing down without skis. They were able to remain mostly upright while I descended part way on my backside much to all of our amusement!

Back at Juvasshytta and I popped in for a coffee before heading back over Sognefjell. The place was full of very athletic looking characters in ski gear. They turned out to be some of the Norwegian National ski team. Apparently they practice at the summer ski centre here as the snow's usually good all summer. Back to the car for the trip down the mountain and I noticed that the bus had gone. I never did get to see it negotiate that road.

On my return to Sogndal I'd walked to the bar to buy myself a beer - something not to be done lightly in Norway at over £4 a pint - when I was approached by a man who had clearly handed over a small fortune to the bartender that day. He'd heard me speaking English at the bar and decided to have a conversation.
     "English" he slurred at me.
     "Yes I am English" I replied.
     "London" was his next contribution.
     "No, not from London, I'm from Cheshire." I replied. The man swayed and looked blank. "Near to Manchester..." I added. At this his face lit up with apparent comprehension.
     "Manchester United!" he exclaimed smiling drunkenly.
     "No, Manchester City" was my instant reply to this.
     "Manchester United!" this time to anyone else within earshot who might be interested in contributing, followed by some slurred Norwegian that I doubt even the locals could understand.
     "Manchester City" I countered again. This riveting conversation looked set to go on for some time but rescue came in the form of the man's wife entering the bar - fishing rod over her shoulder along with a couple of nice looking trout for tea - and hauling him back out of the door - only in Norway.

If you missed part one it's right here

Around the Mountain - Biking Skiddaw Forest

The last few occasions I had ventured to Skiddaw Forest, notably to Great Calva and on the walk to Skiddaw from the North via Bakestall, I encountered mountain bikers riding the circuit of the mountain. I thought at the time that this seemed a particularly good idea and decided on doing the route myself though the vagaries of the Lakeland weather ensured that I waited some time before getting further than thinking about the route.

True - some of the people I saw were riding on ice covered paths or through driving rain and I'll go out on the fells in most weather but I'm fairly new to mountain biking and I guess I'm just not extreme enough for that. Anyway last weekend I finally did the route which was harder than expected but loads of fun. The weather was dry but the trail quite definitely was not.

The ride around Skiddaw is a mix of road, track and rough mountain paths lasting 14 miles for the circuit or about 17 if you park in Keswick as I did. The maximum altitude is 500m or just over 1600 feet.

I left the tourists in Keswick to explore the 50 odd outdoor shops the town is reputed to contain - I haven't counted them and don't intend to but I can well believe the statistic - and rode the short distance to the main roundabout on the A66. Thankfully we don't ride along here but it's straight over towards Bassenthwaite and first right up the lane towards Underscar, Skiddaw and Latrigg.

After the first of many hills the lane bore left by the sharp right up to the Latrigg and Skiddaw car park. If you started there then this is where you will join - probably at great speed as it's a steep hill down to here.Now followed a pleasant ride up and down along the quiet lane - I encountered only 1 car - through Millbeck village to rejoin the A59 at the wooded foot of Dodd. It was sobering to think that the high point of this ride was level with the top of that 1600 foot fell that rose ahead.

The main road - which is not as busy as the A66 - was followed for a little over 2km where I was able to join a forest path through the woods on the right. It leaves a small roadside car park a little way past the entrance to Dodd Wood and follows a pleasant meandering path through the woods to the side of the road. After just over a kilometre it forks - don't carry on up the hill but go left to another roadside parking near the Ravenstone Hotel and rejoin the road.

A case of what you prefer really - it's quicker on the road but on the forest path you will not be mowed down by tourists looking at the view or motorcyclists attempting the land speed record.

After another short stint on the A59 I took the lane on the right towards Orthwaite and Caldbeck. Here one is reminded that the route's high point of 500 metres must be reached at some stage - the lane climbs steeply but I didn't walk at all. At least there was no traffic on this lane as I climbed higher towards the big hills on the right which were topped by the snow edged bulk of Skiddaw. This would be hot work in summer but today the exercise only served to keep the chill out.



Presently the lane descended steeply then climbed again and I soon reached the turn off for Skiddaw House through a gate on the right where there were some wonderful views of Skiddaw across the intervening meadows.




The way at first lay along a paved road (traffic free) up a (fairly) gradual slope. The big hills though are now close and our route lies into the gap on the left of the picture.

Here we lose the tarmac and the unwitting cyclist is treated with this view of the track rising ahead at a gradient that must be about 25%. The view of Dash Falls - also known as Whitewater Dash - which is among the Lake District's most impressive waterfalls is some compensation for the hard work to come and is also a fine excuse to stop and rest a while!

Even my bike looked tired! This is the top of the steep climb but ahead the track continues to ascend though the wide hairpin bend just ahead is not as steep as it looks from below.



Soon I was on more level terrain riding towards Blencathra near the high point of the route at over 1600 feet. Skiddaw House is about 2km from here and slightly lower. Beyond Skiddaw House which is a Youth Hostel, the path becomes rough singletrack with some very rough sections after the gate. There was a short ascent that I didn't even attempt to ride owing to the size and number of rocks on the path along with the depth of water that lurked in places. If you're into those black graded trails you'll love it - but I walked.

The very rough area is short and the trail soon becomes pure joy to ride on. The picture shows the path along Glenderaterra 400 feet above the river. Distant views of Helvellyn can be seen ahead. Close to where the path is seen to turn the far corner ahead, there is another hard section - this time of exposed rock shelves and steps. It's very short and more experienced riders will cross it easily - the rest of us have no shame in walking.



After the short rocky section the route once again becomes - and stays - easy with a rapidly expanding panorama opening up to the south across the Lake District.


The sight of Derwentwater ahead means that we are back on the southern side of Skiddaw where we started. A quick and easy descent follows. The afternoon sun shone on Latrigg with the Central Lake District beyond. Take care to slow down at the bottom of the slope - there is a sharp left and a river crossing! Soon afterwards the Latrigg car park was reached after a short climb and I followed the road on down to take a left back to Keswick by the Underscar Hotel.

Pete Buckley Mar 2011

Essentials >>> How Far? 14miles/22.5km >>> What's it like? A mix of mainly quiet road, easy tracks and very rough tracks - very hilly >>> start and finish Keswick or Latrigg car park >>> Here's a new account of a walk up Skiddaw

Mountain Biking at Whinlatter - The Quercus Trail

The Quercus trail is a fairly new blue graded MTB route at the popular Whinlatter Forest mountain biking area a few miles west of Keswick in the northern Lake District. At 7.5km it is not a long route but does follow singletrack for most of its length and is fairly hilly throughout. The official blurb describes this as "a gem waiting to be discovered" and I would agree.

It was a cold breezy day with the thermometer standing at 2 degrees C at Whinlatter Pass and a blanket of new snow on the higher fells so I opted out of doing the longer red route called the Altura Trail, today deciding on the easier Quercus instead. At first it was a little confusing as to where it actually started - the Altura is clearly marked through a gateway into the forest just beyond the cafe and mountain bike hire centre - and it was only after following this for a short distance that the blue arrows sent me off down to the right.

This first section was a delight to ride - a single track trail twisted gently downhill through the trees and into a more open area with views of the surrounding fells. It was enjoyable and (almost) effortless and there were no difficulties other than optional jumps and rocks so you can just troll along here and enjoy the ride without having to concentrate on staying on the bike. There is a short section of forest road where the route follows the line of the C2C coast to coast route 71 and we carry straight on where this branches down to the left. The blue arrows are easy to follow and the only place I went wrong was at the road crossing. The arrow appears to point left down the road but it is in fact straight on up the path on the other side where the markers are picked up again.

There is always a price to pay for easy downhill riding - it is usually followed by less easy uphill riding and here a short dirt track section led to a singletrack path the climbed in switchbacks through the trees. The gradient was manageable though and I was soon up the steeper sections though I may not have been so fast on a warm day! Now I followed the arrows along an interesting section that in a way was even better than the first part of the route with smooth bumps and banked sections on the downhills. You pass a sign that gives the choice of heading home early - don't unless you are knackered - this next loop is brilliant fun!

The route then followed a downhill with banked turns where I was able to get up some speed and enjoy the descent safe in the knowledge that I wouldn't hit anything too difficult - that's one of the joys of the blue routes - the reds are exciting but I have come across obstacles I would not like to approach at speed! The trail ends along the same route as the red Altura though this section is an easy ride back to the car park.

My summary of the Quercus Trail is "short but sweet" and I felt like riding it again despite the cold weather. Next time I'll do the Altura which is a loop of 10km followed by one of 9km but I'll definitely do this one again. It is also suitable for older kids as long as they can ride up hills there being little difficulty or danger on the route.

A word on Whinlatter Visitor Centre; facilities excellent, cafe excellent (and not expensive), information on routes and the area excellent, car parking expensive - £3 for 2hrs £5 for up to 4 hours and more for all day. This is my only gripe about the place though there is limited space outside and I havn't checked the prices at the other car park - at Grizedale for instance some of the additional car parks are free.

Pete Buckley November 2010

How far is it? 7.5km/4.6 miles >>> What's it like? Blue grade MTB trail - mostly single track, fairly hilly but not technical >>> Planning a visit? Here's the trail guide on pdf - also available from the visitor centre.

Gisburn Forest - An Introduction to Mountain Biking

Gisburn Forest in North Lancashire on the edge of the Forest of Bowland contains 2 mountain bike trails; the red graded 17km outing known as "The 8" which I rode recently, and the easier 9.5km blue graded Bottoms Beck Trail which makes up the lower loop of the figure of eight shape that gives the red trail its name. Today saw me back at Gisburn with my 12 year old son, Josh who han't been on the bike for a couple of months so giving a good reason to try the blue trail.

We rode out of the car park at Cocklett Hill - where both trails start - along the link path to turn left on the trail proper. A wide forest path led easily downhill between the trees - both trails co-existing for a short distance - before the red arrows branch off on singletrack up into the woods to the right. That first short red section has no difficulties if you fancy it but we kept to the blue route which followed a wide track then a woodland path past where the trails met up again and along a short road section beside the Stocks Reservoir.

Back into the forest on the right and we now climbed steadilyon a surface that became rough for a while into an open valley where once again the routes parted company. Just as you approach what looks like a big climb, the blue arrows point right along a nearly level path known as the Old Railway. If you're doing "The 8" it's straight on up the hill - there's more to come too!

The Old Railway section is a very pleasant pathway suitable for family rides and it meanders through woodland before meeting the other trail coming down from the left. Here there is another opportunity to try a short technical section over a small bridge. It's nothing too scary unless you go on the black grade boardwalks - boards and wooden bridges with a few obstacles parallel to the gravel forest road. The choice is yours!

This time though we stayed on the forest road and overtook 3 other bikes going up the hill - the biggest climb on the Bottoms Beck Route - before stopping for water at the junction just past the farmhouse where the trail forks again. Left here for the more challenging (but fun!) half of "The 8" and straight on for home.

Now - do I look like someone who knows where he's going, because when I'm out walking in the hills, I almost always get asked for directions. Here this good tradition was kept up by a guy who rode up to us while we drank from our water bottles. Seems he'd ridden into the forest on a side road and didn't know where he'd come in so as a consequence didn't know the way out either. This gave me visions of cyclists riding round and round the trails unable to find their way out of the forest - well I suppose it can look kind of similar!

The directions - blue and red arrows for the bike trails and coloured marks on posts for the walks - are easy to follow but they do direct you around from and to the trailhead or start point which in this case was Cocklett Hill which isn't ideal if that's not where you want to go. For those entering by unmarked forest roads, themarker posts are usually numbered and a free map from the internet shows the location of these. We saw this guy again where our route turned right off the forest road and his carried on along it. I think he found his way out!

The arrows - now both blue and red - soon directed us off the wide trail and back onto singletrack which here was a proper mountain bike trail with steep winding turns, big bumps andshort but steep climbs and descents. This section ended with some boards which were fairly wide but the water underneath remained a good incentive not to fall off and then we emerged back onto the forest road.

A short ascent as a light rain began to fall led to a faster downhill before we branched left along a meadow path that led back into the woods on a smoother surface than the previous singletrack before the highlight of the route. The finish is a smooth constructed trail with banking on the turns enabling a fast fun descent to round off the day. The track then bears left straight onto the link path towards the car park, ensuring that the navigationally challenged don't end up going round again.

Pete Buckley October 2010

Essentials >>> How Far? 9.5km/6 miles >>> What's it like? Forest Roads and some singletrack (blue grade MTB trail) >>> Start and finish at Cocklet Hill car park, Gisburn Forest

Follow this link for the Gisburn Red Trail 

Mountain Biking in Gisburn Forest

Gisburn Forest near Slaidburn in the Forest of Bowland contains miles of forest trails that can be used by walkers and cyclists but of the most interest to people on 2 wheels are the 2 specially constructed mountain bike trails, "The 8" and "Bottoms Beck". The first of these, known as the 8 because it makes up a figure of eight circuit is 18km in length and graded red (difficult) while Bottoms Beck is a blue graded (moderate) route of 9.5km that effectively follows the lower loop of the eight while missing out the technical sections and the biggest hills. The blue route is suitable for newcomers to the sport - such the author - but the red route was too tempting and while it is simply awesome in places it is graded "difficult" for a reason as I found out.

Setting out from the Cocklet Hill car park (free) - the bike trails all start here while the walks mainly start from the car park by Stocks Reservoir - I rode through the forest on a cool September morning following the directions for both routes. Directions here are easy with the red route - The 8 - marked with red arrows on the posts and the blue route - Bottoms Beck - marked with blue ones. For most of the first section they follow the same route. The actual routes start after a short ride from Cocklet Hill and begin with a left turn as they are one way. An easy dirt track led over undulating terrain until the first red arrow branched off to the right. The route became a narrow single track and climbed over a moderate hill but posed no difficulty and I was soon back on the wide trail which after emerging briefly on the road to cross the causeway by the Stocks Reservoir, began ascending a valley that had partially been cleared of trees. Where the blue arrows turn right to continue following the course of the valley, the stony track steepens ahead up the slopes leading to the forest above.

Some way up this hill my red markers sent me off up a rough narrow trail that climbed into the forest on the right side of the wide track. This section is called "Home Baked" and was built by local volunteers. It winds uphill while conveniently placed rocks conspire to unseat an unattentive rider and I recall one spot where the trail passes between trees spaced so that handlebars will - just - go through the gap! It's loads of fun but I met my limit on the descent through the woods on the far side. As I was enjoying the concentration of avoiding trees and rocks and the cool green shade of the forest after a hot climb, the path steepened ahead down rocky steps. Brakes on and feet down I bottled hurtling headlong down this and walked my bike down most of it before setting off again.

There are a few difficult moments on this route but this one I felt was the hardest that is unavoidabe. Soon I had emerged back on the blue path which seemed as wide as a motorway after my excursion into the trees and I followed this for a short way until a red marker appeared ahead at a junction where the main trail turns right. This next narrow section is not so hilly as the last one and follows a short way from the main track.

The technical features are boards and little bridges over streams with a fearsome looking narrow boardwalk marked as a "black" route. The black (severe) sections of the route are marked with skulls which somehow are not the most inviting of signs. The black sections are optional and needless to say I avoided them - along with a couple of the other features that I figured would see me in the water! This section though is short and fun. A short section of wide forest road (stones) led past a farm and up a steady ascent to the left. The right fork here is the way home - signposted - if you've had enough. The track climbed up to marvellous views and after curving to the left at the top of the climb red markers again sent me back onto the singletrack. This part is called Sheep Hill and begins with a ride over bare rocks with a choice of routes.

The track which was very rough in places with more large stones headed steadily towards Whelpstone Crag - the route's highest point. This section passed through some remote feeling terrain while the peak of Whelpstone Crag grew steadily closer as I negotiated sections of boardwalk, sudden steep rises and stones that made me think that a full suspension mountain bike would perhaps be a good idea. There was more excitement as I inadvertently strayed onto a black section below the crag itself. This was rougher than the hardest part of the climb on Salter Fell I'd done a few weeeks ago so I rapidly found the red route again which I knew that while not so easy, would be rideable - well mostly!

Beyond the crag I avoided the black grade descent - which I just knew would be scary and involve me falling off - and followed the main route down the Hully Gully section. This was the most enjoyable part so far and I was able to gather some speed while remaining confident of staying on the bike. The singletrack is banked at the turns and made for an awesome descent. Thankfully this wasn't too rough.

The route led down into a valley clearing where - after riding through a small river - there was a short climb followed by a descent of easier terrain with the option to choose to ride on the narrow or wider path in several places. This led back down to the forest road past the farm which marks the middle of the "8". Here I took the right fork this time and the blue and red arrows coincided to follow the same route.

The going was now easier on forest road and sections of blue grade singletrack. There was an enjoyable fast descent - again with banked paths - but any technical features here were easier and avoidable and I contemplated whether I could do the blue route - Bottoms Beck - with Daniel in his seat on my bike. Possibly with care on the descent and a short boardwalk. Could be bumpy though!

Pete Buckley September 2010

Essentials >>> How Far? 18km/11 miles >>> What's it like? Hilly with rough sections on singletrack and some technical features (red grade MTB trail) >>> Start and finish at Cocklet Hill car park, Gisburn Forest >>>

A Rough Ride in Bowland

There are several easy rides to be posted here but this is not one of them. A 31 mile tour of the wildest parts of the Forest of Bowland Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty with a third of the route off road and 2 high passes makes for a fantastic day out but make no mistake - it's a tough one!

From the free car park behind Slaidburn village hall, I rode through the small village centre - I'd stayed at the

Youth Hostel here so the stone built houses and tiny village square were familiar - and turned right alongside the pub soon leaving the village behind. A short way up this lane there is a sign on the left for Pain Hill Farm - I wondered whether this was a sign of things to come but if this was Pain Hill it was fairly short and relatively painless to ride up. The route turns right up a lane called woodhouse lane and follows it around past several farm entrances drawing steadily higher towards the vast swell of the high moorlands ahead.

The end of the tarmac is marked by a gate and beyond this I turned sharp right along a gently rising track of broken concrete. I was happily riding under a false sense of security blissfully unaware of what lay ahead.

The track gradually swung back around to the left and lost the concrete surface becoming a rough and stony track that climbed across the heather moors. Ahead lay a vast swathe of lonely open hills into which the way led unerringly while across the valley to my right I spotted a deserted stone hut and an ancient sheepfold. The presence of the building simply accentuated the isolation.

My route now descended towards a river which was crossed by a single stone span which was adorned with a sign declaring it a weak bridge. These words do not encourage one to linger mid-stream and I was soon on the far side riding up the hardest section so far as the track rapidly veered towards mountaineering territory. This in fact turned out to be the toughest part of the whole route with large rocks and a loose surface conspiring to unseat any unwary rider on a gradient that must have been 20%. The grassy edge of the path here proved to offer the best chances of remaining on my bike.

The track soon became more rideable and after passing an old stone farmhouse on the left I stopped for some lunch at an obvious and comfortable rock by the path. Beyond this rock the track does become rough again for a while with large stones but it never quite reaches the bike wrecking level of the bit after the bridge and I was soon on the (relatively)level ground that marks the top of the Bowland Fells - a high moorland plataeu in places 500m above sea level but which still looks nothing like a forest on account of the lack of trees. The name of the Forest of Bowland comes from deer forest which was basically a hunting reserve in days gone by. Ahead lay the rough top of Ward's Stone - the highest point of the region and I had a sense of crossing the summit of Salter Fell and heading down the other side though there was no clear pass and the descent doesn't really start properly until after the gate is reached.

After the gate views opened out more the further I went with the wilderness-like landscape to the West forming a wide and deep valley through the hills leading towards the West Lancashire plains. The track this side is called Hornby Road and runs more or less north westwards through the hills though there is little chance of getting lost as long as you ignore the few tracks branching off.

Soon a beautiful vista began to widen ahead with the green lowlands rising steadily up to the Penninesin the East and the Yorkshire 3 Peaks dominating the view; Whernside the highest, Ingleborough with its familiar flat top and Pen y Ghent around to the right. Ahead lay the fields and woodlands of the Lune Valley backed by the jagged skyline of the Lake District mountains far off in the haze. It was towards these distant views that I rode - a long effortless freewheel that more than made up for the hardships endured in getting up here.

This section involved one or two rough parts but soon I was on a wide swathe of grass like a fairway on a golf course that led swiftly down between slopes of heather. The fairway comparison may be an exaggeration but there were no rocks or big bumps to negotiate and it was simply a case of relaxing in the saddle and enjoying the big skies and far off views.

Presently after a minor rough section I was suddenly back in civilisation - a gate led to a tarmac road and there was a farmhouse in front - High Salter it's called. Here a fast descent and a steep but short climb led me to a right turn leading steeply down through woodland to the old stonebuilt village of Wray.

The return route after turning right at the first junction in Wray leads along a pleasant quiet road that follows the valley floor towards Lower Bentham. After crossing the River Hindburn turn right - this is the main road direction anyway - and climb up again passing the farm of Four Score Acres on the left. The name is clearly visible. A mile or so after here turn right up the hill and follow the signs to Slaidburn rather than go to Lower Bentham which would be further to ride. If you do miss the turn and end up there, just folow for Slaidburn anyway.

On this road I met no traffic but had cause to stop and get my camera out in a hurry when I spotted a tiny roe deer stood stock still in the field by the road. Needless to say the deer ran off before I could take its photo. I soon came to a crossroads and followed the right turn to Slaidburn which led over the infamous Cross O' Greets Pass which at 468 metres or over 1500 feet is one of the major challenges on such bike races as the Tour of Britain.

The climb to the summit is gradual with the steepest section at the end though if you had gone via Lower Bentham the start would have been long and steep - this way it was more gradual. The views improve with altitude and the summit - unlike Salter fell - is a clear ridge leading back to the southern side of the Bowland Fells. The last bit was tough though near the end of the day and it was a relief to be speeding like the wind down the far side.

There is however a sting in the tail to this route - after the descent from Cross O' Greets, you cross a river and enter woods where the road abruptly climbs up again. This last hill is steep but not too long and once you are up it is downhill virtually all the way to Slaidburn to complete the circuit of the Forest of Bowland 31 miles later to end a hard but enjoyable and varied ride.

The off road sections are my favourite but a mountain bike is recommended for these - my hybrid fared OK but a road bike would struggle. There are hills throughout - not just the two main passes so if you see riding up hills as a challenge you'll love this but if you only like cycling on the flat - don't do it!

Pete Buckley July 2010

Essentials >>> How far is it? 31 miles/50km >>> What's it like? Hilly with some very rough parts - a third off road >>> Start and finish in Slaidburn village

The Lakeside Trail in Kielder Forest

Kielder Forest is located in the county of Northumberland on the southern edge of the Cheviot Hills just a few miles to the English side of the Border. The area is renowned for mountain biking trails of all levels of difficulty and several new routes have been opened recently.

Perhaps the best way to experience what this area has to offer is to ride the Lakeside Way that does the full 26 mile circuit of Kielder Water, the largest man made lake in Europe. The route is suitable for beginners to mountain biking, being a blue grade or moderate difficulty though it is hilly and doing it in 2 sections may be more suitable for family groups. The south shore is easier and has more facilities while the north shore has no motor access and the trail is far from flat. The previous occasion I was here the route had not been finished but this August I set out with my family to complete it.

Beginning at the car park up the hill from Kielder Castle the 4 of us rode down the road and onto the signposted path to the Minotaur Maze past the play area. Both of these are excellent for keeping kids entertained though today one of ours was setting the pace ahead while the other rode in comfort in his seat on the back of my bike.

Pass the maze and turn left at the end where a sign directs over the road to the Lakeside Way down a track that follows the upper reaches of the North Tyne River on the left. Following this dirt track down through the wooded riverbank soon brought us to the Lakeside Way itself which can be followed in either direction from here. We chose to ride in a clockwise direction tackling the North Shore first. This gives more opportunities for tired legs to abandon the ride later on - the north shore of Kielder Water is remote country with no motor access while all facilities and visitor centres are on the southern shore.

The trail was mainly a dirt track type surface which alternately climbed up to open country and descended into the dense woodland along the shore of Kielder Water itself. I really enjoyed riding along here though Jacqui was indignant at the fact that something that described itself as a lakeside route should so resemble an Alpine stage of the Tour de France!

To be fair the route is graded blue which is moderate in terms of mountain bike routes but not so moderate as far as family rides go. The main highlights apart from the spectacular views over Kielder Water and the joy of riding in remote country far from the noise and danger of traffic, are the artworks along the route. These are numerous and are described in the local information leaflets though for some of them you need to leave the trail and ride a short way to see them. The first of the art works we stopped at were the Janus Chairs; 3 moveable curved giant seats by the lakeside that you climb up into and are surprisingly comfortable vantage points from which to view the unspoilt scenery. Daniel was though more interested in a digger that had been left by a pathway undergoing restoration.

On again to another trackside artwork called Robin's Hut. Someone once said that if an object is made that does not serve a purpose then it must be art yet the Janus Chairs provide comfort and shelter from the rain; while Robin's Hut provided a pleasant sheltered lunch spot with views across Kielder Water to the Leaplish visitor centre on the far shore.

The Lakeside Way did follow the shoreline a little more closely now following it around several indentations meaning that Kielder Dam which was in view ahead was further than it had looked. After another uphill deviation we came all of a sudden to the Hawkhope car park which appeared through the trees following a downhill and an easy flat section.

The Lakeside Way is well signposted around this section and the route is much easier with much smaller hills and a smoother surface to ride on. After crossing the dam we stopped for a drink at the Tower Knowe visitor centre which was surprisingly quiet having ridden about 14 miles. We would continue to Leaplish where Jacqui had decided to call it a day and take Daniel to the play area while me and Josh finished the route to return with the car.

The well marked route to Leaplish follows the lake below the road and is an easier ride than the north shore with the steepest hill encountered on the way up to the Bull Crag Peninsula which also gives the best views. After Bull Crag one passes the ornately carved Freya's Hut which is directly opposite Robin's Hut where we had eaten lunch on the far shore of Kielder Water.

Leaplish is the main visitor centre here and there is a play area, cafe, birds of prey centre - displays are highly recommended - and even a gym and pool though as I was riding 26 miles today I was not in need of a gym. Jacqui tethered her bike to the fence of the play area where Daniel could run around and pretend to be either Thomas the Tank Engine or Sportacus - whichever he favoured today - and Jacqui could watch him. She found this prospect more appealing than the last 7 miles of the trail. Me and Josh set off through the car park and rejoined the Lakeside Way which descended to turn sharply onto a bridge over an inlet. This is where Josh crashed.

There was no serious injury but he could not go on so returned to the play area to await rescue with Daniel and Jacqui. I now set off to collect the car with some urgency.

After Leaplish the route regains some of its wilder qualities that characterise the early part of the ride and while there's a short section on a quiet tarmac road we're soon off on the forest trails again. The way follows the Lewis Burn Inlet to cross the fascinating wooden bridge that spans it at the bottom of a deep wooded valley. I was quite satisfied after the bridge as I ascended the hill on its far side to effortlessly fly past several people with expensive looking bikes and kit who appeared to be struggling with the hill. What made it funnier was that I was on my hybrid bike from Halfords with a child's seat on the back though I may not have been quite so fast had the seat still been occupied!

The last part of this trail was a joy. I saw hardly anyone and I rode on a delightful forest path through patterns of light and shade made by the newly emerged late afternoon sun shining through the trees. Sooner than expected I had arrived at the place we had joined the trail earlier in the day so turned left this time to follow the North Tyne the short distance to Kielder Castle. The last hill to the car park was a fitting challenge to finish with - Jacqui would have hated that - and I was soon on my way back to Leaplish.

Pete Buckley August 2010

Essentials >>> How far? 26 miles >>> What's the route like? Some hills, well marked easy trail >>> Start and finish at Kielder Castle

Biking Grizedale Forest - the Hawkshead Moor Trail

Here was the first of the hills, the wide track leading steeply through a field on the far side of the gate. Beyond, the grassy slopes rose up to where they were overhung by the edge of the forest which itself cloaked steep hillsides which we would have to surmount at some point in the very near future.

From the Grizedale visitor centre we'd cycled a short distance following the green arrow markers for the bike trail known as the Hawkshead Moor Trail, a 10.5 mile (16.9km) loop through the western reaches of Grizedale Forest in the southern Lake District. The route is entirely off road mainly following gravel track or traffic free forest roads.

The first hill was short but steep and led us to a crossroads under the trees. Here you can join the loop in either direction but going left or clockwise seems the preferred way - the biggest hills are done early in the route this way. In addition the Hawkshead Moor Trail follows the same route as the North Face Trail - a red graded mountain bike path that leaves and rejoins the main path at intervals giving the option to do as much or as little as you want. This trail is one way being single track path and must be done in a clockwise direction.

After a short downhill here the climbing began in earnest with a very steep start that settled into a steady ascent into dense woodland as we left the valley behind. There were six of us doing the ride today; our friends Sam and Jamie who were camping with us, my wife Jacqui who didn't walk half as much as she'd expected to, my 12 year old son Josh who was up front doing a good impression of Alberto Contador and my 2 year old son Daniel who resided in great comfort in his seat on the back of my own bike.

Following a concerted effort we reached more open country with large clearings in the coniferous forest allowing distant views to open up. The gradients became gentler and finally began to undulate before we embarked on the first swift downhill allowing us to cool off after the earlier exertions. Soon we arrived at the first diversion for the North Face MTB trail which Sam and Jamie had opted to do. It is clearly signed with red markers both where it leaves and rejoins the main track and they left us with Josh who had also opted to give it a go. Owing to boardwalks, rocks and small drop offs I decided - with my young passenger - to stay with Jacqui on the easier path but I'll do it when I'm next at Grizedale with a bike to myself!

Our own route was thoroughly enjoyable though and even Jacqui who had not found the hills much fun describing them as "like the Alps... only worse" began to enjoy the ride as well. Long exhilarating descents and short climbs led us northwards with a spectacular panorama of the Coniston Fells on the left and Coniston Water far below that was gradually replaced with one of Langdale and then of Helvellyn and Fairfield as we neared the northern part of our loop. There were frequent pauses to wait for those on the slower but more technical North Face Trail giving us the chance to experience the forest's stillness and bird life. We were far from any road or traffic noise and there were few people about - another couple of family groups and 4 or 5 mountain bikers were all we saw even though the visitor centre was crowded. Oh and one chap heading the wrong way in search of Moor Top car park.

Just before Moor Top - after we had given the lone wanderer directions - our route branched off left and south to follow the green markers on the home stretch. Here a fast descent broken only by Daniel's triumphant announcement that he had got his arm out of his harness - brought us in very little time back to the crossroads near the start of the route. All that remained was to wait for the rest of our party and ride the couple of miles back to the campsite where we were based just south of Satterthwaite. We had ridden to the start instead of driving to the visitor centre to avoid paying for parking and unnecessarily using the car.

A total of 10.5 miles from the visitor centre or 14 miles riding from the Grizedale Campsite (recommended) the Hawkshead Moor Trail is a couple of hours very well spent. The route is suitable for families with the option for the adventurous to try the harder route though a certain amout of fitness is required for the hills early on the route. Unfit beer swilling pie eaters would perhaps struggle here but it's the best way to enjoy the unique views of this beautiful corner of the Lake District which improve the further you get from the motor roads.

Essentials >>> 10.5 miles circular route >>> traffic free forest roads >>> non technical with fair sized hills >>>

Pete Buckley May 2010

Biking the 7 Stanes - On the Big Country Trail

It seemed to have rained for days but not today - the sun shone warmly and we'd made a good start along the forest road. With little effort we maintained something over 40 km/h as the summer breeze brought out the scents from the surrounding woodland and meadow. The gradient was a gentle downhill with our momentum carrying us over the small uphill sections of the single track lane as we sped from light to shade under the trees. I was glad of our good start because it wasn't always going to be this easy.

The Big Country Trail is a 58km circular mountain bike trail from Glen Trool in the Galloway Forest Park of south western Scotland and I was riding it today with Josh, my 11 year old son. The route is maintained by the Forestry Commission as one of their "7 Stanes" mountain bike trails and follows partly off road trails with some sections on quiet roads such as the one we were on now. The main challenge of riding the Big Country Track is one of hills and distance rather than technical difficulties.

Our first challenge came not with a climb or rough descent though but in the small town of Minnigaff just outside Gatehouse of Fleet. If there was a sign for the Big Country Route - marked in purple here - we missed it and ended up on a busier road - the B7079. at least it had a cycle path at the side and we soon were able to take a left onto the A712 signposted New Galloway which was again quiet and began to climb steadily into the Galloway Hills which rose invitingly ahead. A look at the map revealed that we could rejoin our route a little further on. I wanted to get to grips with the off road but Josh preferred the road if it wasn't busy. It would mean that we would end up doing extra distance but it would be easier riding.

Gatehouse of Fleet was now left well behind and the forest pressed in on both sides of the road. We had been climbing steadily though not at a hard gradient and after we passed one of the entrances to Kirroughtree Forest on the right we were able to leave the road. A track led off into the woods on our left and climbed steeply upwards bending briefly back to the left - the way we'd come - before turning back on course through the trees. Here we met another track the came up from the left to join us. This was where we'd have come out if we'd not gone wrong at Minnigaff where we should have turned left at the end of the forest road. Here we passed a sign declaring this to be the Old Edinburgh Road. I found it quite fascinating that before the tarmac road, this track was the main route north through these mountains. The horse drawn coaches would rattle along here presumably persued by the odd highwayman! It would have been remote country to travel through in those days.

We stopped for an early lunch in a wide clearing with a view of the hill called Cairnsmore of Fleet. We sat on a pile of logs that had been felled and apart from the stony track and signs of logging there was no other sign of human activity here. I'd have thought that on a day like this there would have been other cyclists orwalkers but no - we had it all to ourselves.

Onwards again and past the tiny isolated Loch of the Lowes bordered by heather and patches of trees

overhanging the still water. The rough track surfaced with stones had been mainly downhill since lunch but now it climbed again in a couple of short but steep ascents. The bumpy track is harder to get any momentum going so these hills were harder than a similar climb on the road and my lower gears were tested for the first time. Josh decided after falling off again - more due to lack of speed than obstacles - that he'd rather be on the road so we decided to return to it instead of the short cut over Poultrybuie Hill and visit Clatteringshaws Loch. For now though it was the track which wound through some wonderfully remote country - no sign of houses or cars, just a vastness of heather and trees through which we rode steadily.

The track went down again and became a little less rough and we were able to make a little more speed as we reached a second small lake - The Black Loch - where the short steep way turned off to the left. That's the proper route for the Big Country Trail but Josh still preferred to head for the road. Besides we had some unavoidable mountain bike tracks to finish off with. Another couple of miles past the Black Loch on relatively level track brought us within sight of the A712 once again and we rejoined the smooth tarmac. There was hardly any traffic so I didn't object to leaving the track and we at once doubled our speed. A gentle gradient took us higher before a 60 km/h descent nearly made us overshoot the turn off to the left. The signpost was for National Cycle Route 7 again and the Glen Trool Off Road Route. Here a narrow tarmac lane passed the Clatteringshaws Dam and set off back towards the hills.

The fox hadn't spotted us - he trotted along the side of the road ahead occasionally stopping to sniff the grassy verge in the same way that a dog would. Then he must have scented or heard us as he was off into the bushes by the roadside as we approached. The road which had been gradually gaining height since leaving Clatteringshaws Dam soon descended a long hill to meet the track coming over Poultrybuie Hill from the Black Loch where a right hander at the bottom took us off the tarmac again. The rough gravel and stones of the mountain bike track led on through the heather andtrees into the wilderness that lay between here and the end of the Big Country Track at Glen Trool.

Steep climbs that tested our strength - it's best to keep going rather than stop on this rough ground - were followed by quick bone jarring descents though always we climbed higher until at something over 1000 feet - the map shows 318 metres - we came within sight of the remote Loch Dee. Away beyond the mountains rose in lines above a vast upland plateau. The very names of the hills and rivers here fired the imagination - Rig of the Jarkness, Curleywee Hill, the Rhinns of Kells, Silver Flowe - they sounded like places in a fairy tale and the landscape suited them. It was a wonderful spot.

The pass to Glen Trool could be seen clearly ahead not too far off and we set off again. The going was a bit easier now first heading down past a bothy (hut) built for fishermen on Loch Dee before a fairly easy climb to the pass itself. Here we ate the rest of our food by the Stane which is a large polished stone bearing carvedrunes - not ancient but placed by the Forestry Commission to mark one of their 7 mountain bike areas in Southern Scotland known as the 7 Stanes.

We now rode through open heathery country below rough crags as we began our desent to Glen Trool. Josh went ahead at a furious pace - his bike is more suited to the off road tracks than mine and for all his claiming to prefer the road he made a good descent of the track back into the forest. That was until he stopped at a turn off, looked round and fell off his bike again! I think I was unkind to laugh but descending the rough trail at speed uncscathed then falling off a stationary bike...

At a more leisurely pace we completed the steep forest trail to cross the bridge at the bottom. Here we were passed by 2 mountain bikers - surprisingly the first we had seen on the whole route. We followed them along the roughest section of the route so far. Large rocks and tree roots joined the effort to unseat us and the mountain bikers - but with machines more suited to such terrain - they soon disappeared ahead into the trees.

The Big country Route had a sting in the tail. The track now climbed back up at the steepest gradient we'd met all day staying rough so it was hard to get going. With the last of our strength we reached Bruce's Stone which is one of the monuments around here to Scottish hero Robert the Bruce and also the start point for the route to Merrick - Galloway's highest summit - which we'd climbed the year before.

Once back on tarmac our speed picked up and soon we saw the mountain bikers ahead. Part competitive spirit and part desire to be eating an ice cream in the cafe saw us overtake them in a kind of team persuit postion completing the last 3 miles of single track road to the car park in just over 8 minutes. The Big Country Trail must rank as one of the best days out I've had on the bike - certainly in recent times - and I'll look forward to re visiting the area and trying a few more of the bike routes. A big well done to the Forestry Commission for creating such good routes for cyclists!

Essentials >>> 36 miles/58km circular route >>> mostly forest roads >>> rough in places with big hills

Pete Buckley July 2009

The Easiest 15 Miles in England (probably)

The Crook of Lune near Lancaster is the start point for several walks and cycle routes but this 15 mile circuit from Denny Beck car park a mile nearer to Lancaster is one of my favorites in the area. The route is suitable for families, being almost completely devoid of hills or difficulties and in fact you would probably need to go to Holland to find a flatter bike ride. The main joy though is in the variety of scenery you ride through including the leafy riverbank of the Lune, a sea front ride from Morecambe to Hest Bank and a rural canalside stretch on the return journey.

Leave the car park and head towards Lancaster with views of the River Lune on the right through the trees. After passing under the M6 you will ride under another high bridge - this is the Lune Aqueduct and it carries the Lancaster Canal high above the river. Our return is over this aqueduct on the towpath. Soon afterwards Lancaster is reached and we pass a skate park before heading under a small subway, after which a left turn by the road - well signposted - takes us to the Milennium Bridge - a modern structure taking the traffic free walk and cycle way over the river. On the far side follow the track to Morecame about three and a half miles distant.

A good job has been made of the cycle path through Lancaster as you don't have to go on the busy roads at all. In fact the only road section on this ride is about 200 metres from Morecambe railway station - which we pass - and the prom. Morecambe's best feature is the stone jetty which protrudes a quarter of a mile out to sea with views across Morecambe Bay to the mountains of the Lake District. You can get refreshments here too.

Follow the prom northwards with the sea on your left to Hest Bank where the route crosses the busy A6 and climbs the route's only hill of any note on the opposite pavement - you are spared riding on the road again - until blue signs direct you through a small housing estate to the Lancaster Canal where the towpath is followed in a southerly direction along National Cycle Network route 6 (turn right).

The sea views have been replaced by a pleasant rural setting and a variety of birds can be spotted in the reed beds on the opposite bank. The towpath is wide enough to ride safely on without the risk of ending up in the water though it may be a good idea to stop whilst carrying out any birdwatching activities. Presently you will arrive at the aforementioned aqueduct which is fascinating to cross and gives views far along the river below.

Immediately after reaching its far side a path with steps leads down to rejoin the Lune Valley cycle path below The steps are not unduly steep but number over 90 and are the only awkward section of this route. They are avoidable by joining the road a little further on though we managed them OK with my wife helping our 2 year old son down while I carried our bikes one at a time.

Turn right on the cycle path at the bottom and you will soon be back at the car park. Setting out from the Crook of Lune which is a busier car park adds 2 and a bit miles to the circuit it being further from Lancaster but there are toilets there and Woody's burger bar which offers good value meals. The council produce excellent maps for walking and cycling in the area and they can be obtained here free of charge.

This ride is suitable to do with the kids being almost entirely traffic free and having the added advantage of visiting the seaside! Canal bank concerns can be alleviated by returning the same way from Morecambe.

Essentials >>> 15 miles circular route >>> traffic free cycle paths >>> almost completely flat >>>