A Welsh Weekend Adventure - 2 - Pen y Gwryd to Glyder Fawr

Between the rugged defile of Pen y Pass and the wild spaces of the Ogwen Valley rises the ridge of peaks known as the Glyderau or Glyders. The area is as rocky and precipitous on the Ogwen side as it is rough and uncompromising on the other and includes such exciting routes as the Cribyn Ridge,

Wonderful view of the Nantgwynant

Bristly Ridge and Tryfan; some of the finest routes in Snowdonia. This route - which should not be underestimated for all its short distance - ventures though the rough terrain north of Pen y Pass to reach Glyder Fawr, which at 3279 ft or 999 m marks the high point of the ridge.

The second day of this short adventure in Snowdonia began with a chilly morning the campsite at Capel Curig; the previous night's rain and wind had given way to clear skies and temperatures of minus 2 to 3 degrees Celsius around dawn, leaving my micro camper coated in a layer of ice. After shivering through breakfast, I made the short journey to Pen y Gwryd and the cold began to give way to a day of glorious autumnal sunshine as I set out for Pen y Pass. Why didn't I drive up and park there?

The start of the path to Pen y Pass

Because it's £10 a day if you can get a space as opposed to £4 near Pen y Gwryd and free a quarter mile down the road.

For that same reason a few Snowdon-bound hikers were walking up the road but far preferable to that is the footpath from just opposite the bus turning area just past the hotel. It's an easy well made path that brings you out at the car park but also gives a false sense of security about what's to come...

After crossing the road, a path leads up on the opposite side; steeply at first before easing into grassy terrain and becoming less distinct as the lonely tarn of Llyn Cwmffynon is seen on the right. It's hard to believe here that the road is so close behind as we seem to have entered the wilderness here but most of the walkers from Pen y Pass are heading up Snowdon on the other side of

Snowdon (2nd from R) and its range from the rest stop 

the valley.

A boggy area was met after a slight descent and the path faded in and led me me generally straight on (in a north westerly direction) with the tarn on my right, until it faded out of existence altogether and my way led through rough country, gradually climbing towards the ridge line ahead. Vestiges of a path here and there are probably little more than sheep tracks and it's more a case of finding the driest route, which eventually led me to bear left, (more to the west) up the rough slopes towards the higher ground.

The tussock grass, bogs and low rocky outcrops make for hard going and if you plan to do this route, when you reach the boggy depression

Y Garn and the sea from the top of Glyder Fawr

near the tarn, bear more to the left where a more distinct path does appear. It's no drier in the lower sections but is much easier to follow and was to be my descent route.

When it seemed as though the struggle uphill would go on forever, there was a sudden change in the terrain; the steeply sloping rough country through which I had been travelling, opened out and a path led northwards over a gently sloping plateau towards the summit of Glyder Fawr which didn't now look so far away. A short rest followed by an easy walk, led me in warm autumn sunshine to the stony crown of the Glyders where the landscape changed yet again into one of shattered boulders and grey tors that stood up high above their surroundings. One of these indeed made the highest point of the peak at 999 metres or 3279 feet and was reached by an easy scramble up.

Rock formations on the summit

This is a wonderful viewpoint on a day like this and the short video below has an all round summit panorama, which includes Glyder Fach and Tryfan eastwards along the ridge, Y Garn in the opposite direction and the Snowdon group rising to the South. My descent route retraced my steps off the summit to where I had reached the plateau but I continued more to the West to follow the top of this broad ridge down. Eventually a more consistent path was reached that I followed down over steep ground at first and then once again over the wet terrain to my start point.

This is a short route from Pen y Pass being a return journey of just 7 km which increases to 11 km (7 miles) if started from Pen y Gwryd.  The

Looking towards the start point from near the summit

additional distance from there just adds a pleasant walk to the harder going of the off path sections as well as saving at least £6 off parking which can be converted into beer at the pub - but not if driving! The total ascent is about 725 m from Pen y Gwryd and 650 m from Pen y Pass. There's also an option to follow the ridge to Glyder Fach and descend by a good path via Llyn Caseg-fraith to Pen y Gwryd, which is a walk of just over 11 km though the section between the two Glyder peaks is very rough going with boulders and a short scramble to negotiate. In these hills, modest distances can be deceptive.

On balance the best way up Glyder Fawr is by the Cribyn Ridge from Llyn Ogwen on the northern side, descending by the Devil's Kitchen path. I'll post that on here when I do it again though there is a description of the walk from the last time. Looking at the date on there I'd say it was about time I did it again as it was good.

Check out a glorious day on the Glyders - well worth it for the summit views...

If you missed it, here's the Day 1 post...
  The Wild Side of Snowdon

and here's the film of day one in some very different weather - check out the Dr Who time vortex effect near the end...

Dolgoch Falls in North Wales

Here's a post with a difference from the usual fayre of these pages but a few days' camping with the

The early part of the walk to Nant Gwernol

kids in Wales was no less of an adventure than a trip to the hills. It was a trip to the hills after all - to the Fferm Cedris camp site at the foot of Cader Idris - we just did different stuff! Our campsite was in a remote area but it's one I like and there's plenty to do that doesn't cost a fortune - even with the weather as it was.

Some of the best natural sights of this area - other than Cader Idris itself which remained hidden in rain clouds today - are the Nant Gwernol Ravine and the Dolgoch Falls. Both are set in deep natural woodland that could be described as temperate rainforest, and are easily accessible from Abergynolwyn village and the car park at Dolgoch respectively. Forget the car though - far and away the best way to experience this area is on the Talyllyn Railway

My three fellow adventurers at the falls

which winds its way seven and a quarter miles from Nant Gwernol in the hills (free parking at nearby Abergwnolwyn Station) to Tywyn on the Cardigan Bay coast. The waterfalls are a short walk (even for younger kids) from Dolgoch Station.

We began at Abergynolwyn with a walk of about a mile to Nant Gwernol - simply follow the path signposted from just below the station - this follows the railway alongside fields until it crosses the line to reach a wide forest track. Turn right up the hill and follow the track as it curves back around again to head roughly north east through the forest. Presently the track heads more to the right and downhill into a spectacular wooded ravine leading to the railway station of Nant Gwernol. The station can also be reached over the bridge if coming up from the village but you would still have to walk the last bit. If you don't like or are unable to walk then simply take the train up here first. The station in its spectacular setting is well worth seeing instead of just going straight to Tywyn.

Our train arrived to the excitement of the children and some of the adults present - there is something special about a steam train - and we boarded to journey back to Abergynolwyn and on via Dolgoch to

The fascinating valley above the main fall

Tywyn which takes about 45 minutes not including the wait at Abergynolwyn. The beach at Tywyn followed by fish and chips were the order of the day as the coastal climate allowed the sun to make an appearance but that is beyond the remit of these pages.

On our return when the weather was a little better, we left the train at Dolgoch to walk to the falls - a trip of about ten minutes each way. The path is easy but there is a steepish climb up to the upper part of the falls that people unused to outdoor activities may find harder than my six, nine and nineteen year olds did; sprinting up the slope like mountain goats. The falls themselves - especially after the rain - were more than worth the walk plunging from steep wooded slopes into a deep shadowy pool with a

Viaduct over the ravine by Dolgoch Station

roaring sound that contrasted with the more serene setting higher up where the river flows between moss grown banks under the thick forest canopy - a scene  that could be right out of Middle Earth or Narnia.

Please note that there are some steep drop offs which are protected by fencing so while the path is suitable for older children and sensible dogs, toddlers and more impetuous canines should be kept on a lead! There is also a play area at Abergynolwyn by the car park and below the station building. Here's some more information on the Talyllyn Railway and below is a short video of the trip.

A Short Adventure in Scotland - Ben Lawers and the Glen Ogle Trail

Once upon a time on a family holiday to the Highlands I hiked up Ben Lawers with Dad - we went up the normal route from the National Trust for Scotland car park - a route which has the unfortunate reputation for being crowded in the summer months - to stand on the highest point in Tayside and the highest peak in the country south of Ben Nevis. As I recall there were a fair few tourists heading up the hill but despite that it was still a good day out.

Rainbow at Strathyre

One of the reasons this route is popular is the fact that the start point is almost 500 metres above sea level and leaves an ascent completely free of difficulty to the summit which at 1214m or 3984ft would be a much longer undertaking - if still an easy one - from the shores of Loch Tay.

So it was that after a drive in the rain from my campsite at Strathyre, stopping off to see the Falls of Dochart in Killin; there are some things that are better in this weather - I arrived at the infamous visitor centre which turned out not to be there. Apparently the building was demolished a few years back and the site returned to the wild. There is still a car park - on the other side of the road - and information about the area but if you're after a coffee it's back into Killin! Personally I think it's better now as I remember

The start of the path

the old place being very busy. Anyway - it's is on the mountain road between Loch Tay and the Bridge of Balgie over the hill in isolated Glen Lyon. With the weather as it was there was no sign of any crowds today, and the rain had stopped so I prepared to set off. Two footpaths are signposted from here; one to Ben Lawers and another to Meall nan Tarmachan - the start of the Tarmachan Ridge route which I'll do next time if we get some good weather up here.

The route I followed is initially through the nature reserve on a path known as the Edramucky Trail where can be seen a wide range of arctic alpine type flora and fauna which thrives in this area protected from deer and grazing sheep. The trees too are returning and I was amazed to see trees at around 2000 feet above sea level this far north - a height level with the highest parts of Dartmoor or the Peak District.

The last of the trees

The route from the nature reserve - far from being crowded - was extremely enjoyable and is clearly marked all the way to the summit. In fact I had planned a more varied route involving Beinn Ghlas and Meall Corranaich but as the weather made a return in the form of heavy showers and hill fog, I opted to remain on the main path. Beyond the wooded area, the path climbs past some old shepherds' huts known as shielings and turns sharply to the left up the grassy valley of Coire Odhar. At this point the path via Beinn Ghlas carries straight on but I followed the broad trail to the bealach or col at the head of Coire Odhar which is at about 850 metres.

The col is in a fine position with the path heading through towards the Glen Lyon side and the summit route continuing its steady climb to the right without losing much height. I had wanted to

Meall nan Tarmachan

head up the nearby Munro, Meall Corranaich which rises on the other (western) side of the col on my return to this point though this was not to happen due to the deteriorating weather. The far side was sheltered from the wind for a while but the rain now came down again and mist obscured the summit ahead. This section of path though is remarkably easy following the contours of the hill in a gentle ascent to about 1000 metres re crossing the main ridge of the Ben Lawers group this time overlooking Loch Tay - or would have done if you could see it.

Here one rejoins the route coming over Beinn Ghlas which is the one we followed that first time in these hills and begins the final climb up to Ben Lawers. Again the route is nowhere difficult but this is the first part that seems like hard work as the path climbs steeply up the final slopes which today were battered by Westerly gales bringing rain and increasing cold as height was gained. The Met Office website had informed me to expect temperatures of 3 or 4 Celsius at this altitude with

The col at about 850 metres 

windchill down to -4 which is just twenty five for those of you on the other scale. Bearing in mind that it was late July, it just goes to show the value of being prepared in the Highlands! I have seen it snow in August at this height in the Cairngorms and but it felt much colder today on Ben Lawers.

A short rest on the summit with lunch behind the cairn and sheltered from the wind was a welcome relief from the wind and rain but it was not a place to linger today so I was soon heading back down the way I had come to the warmer climes below. The short film below gives some idea of the conditions encountered on this walk - perhaps the day was better suited to looking at the region's waterfalls.

The following morning I had planned a return to the hills above Killin and Loch Tay, to climb Meall

Loch Earn seen from the cycle path

nan Tarmachan and follow the Tarmachan Ridge route back to the non existent visitor centre but I awoke to the rain beating on the roof of my Berlingo Camper and such plans gradually evaporated as the weather failed to clear. The Tarmachan Ridge is apparently not difficult but is exciting with some scrambles and is more of an undertaking than simply following a wide path as I had done to Ben Lawers. I figured that being able to at least see the route ahead would be an advantage here! A plan to head up Ben Lui was likewise put on hold til the next time. Besides, boots and socks had not dried out from yesterday's venture and while I had spare clothes I didn't have a spare pair of boots.

Instead, during a lull in the weather, I got on my bike and headed to the old railway track that heads through Glen Ogle in the direction of Killin. It's a track I've done before and is one of my favourite

Lochan Lairig Cheile at the top of Glen Ogle

rides anywhere. Here's a full account of the Glen Ogle Cycle Path with photos from my last visit but I have added a video of the ride below along with a short clip of the Falls of Dochart in Killin and my walk up Ben Lawers.

The track itself is part of the National Cycle Network Route 7 aka the northern half of the Lochs and Glens Route from Glasgow to Inverness. The section north from Lochearnhead through Glen Ogle over the old railway viaducts is one of the highlights of that route and from Strathyre to Lochearnhead isn't bad either all being off road with some nice forest trails around Balquhidder. Incidentally, the ride south from Strathyre is also highly recommended; the first night here I rode down along the shore of Loch Lubnaig as far as the Falls of Leny (close to Callander) but failed to take a camera so you'll have to take my word for it. In all the whole way from Callander to Killin is on traffic free paths and would make a fine day out - well it would in better weather.

On this trip I stayed at the Immervoulin campsite at Strathyre which I can highly recommend - facilities are excellent and it's a big open field with plenty of room to camp - I'll be back soon. Finally here are the videos from the trip - I've overcome the difficulties of filming from a moving bike without falling off but we're still working on getting the sound better for all weather filming - probably need to invest in a decent mic for starters...

Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse - the West Highland Way on a Bike...

The West Highland Way is an iconic trail leading almost 100 miles from Milngavie near Glasgow to Fort William at the foot of Ben Nevis through some of the finest scenery in Scotland. The route is a long distance hiking trail not a cycle path and I have read reports of people having to carry bikes for long distances over part of the route along the eastern shore of Loch Lomond. This section though was all rideable by mountain bike if pretty rough in places.

The section I chose to ride here is possibly the wildest and remotest part of the whole route, crossing the wilderness of Rannoch Moor between Bridge of Orchy and Kingshouse in Glen Etive. It's worth noting that there is no shelter and in bad weather it's probably a good idea to think twice before setting out on foot or on a bike. I rode the route in both directions as I had to return to my car at Glenorchy and covered 40k or about 25 miles with the lowest point (150m/500ft) at Bridge of Orchy; and the highest point (450m/1500ft) on Rannoch Moor just before the Glencoe Ski Centre.

The last descent to Kingshouse consequently had to be reversed uphill - something I was aware of as I sped happily down it - but the ride south from the high point to Inveroran was nearly all downhill with some exhilarating descents that made all the effort worthwhile. Beyond Kingshouse the WHW continues to the Devil's Staircase - a steep pass at about 550m/1850ft - before descending to sea level at Kinlochleven 9 miles on while south of my start point it's an easy looking path for 7 miles to Tyndrum.

One notable advantage of being on a bike in the Highlands - aside of course from the stunning views - is that that you are faster than the midges and so avoid their efforts to turn you into a meal. They were not so bad today owing to wind and showers but last time I rode from Kingshouse, hikers were being subjected to sustained attacks while I on my trusty steed remained immune - had to keep going though! Here's the day's route in pictures...

The route from the car park by the hotel first crosses the stone bridge over the River Orchy that gives the village its name

Views from the minor road that leads from Bridge of Orchy to Inveroran - it just keeps getting better!

The end of the road - after Inveroran the track becomes rougher as it begins the climb up over Rannoch Moor

Looking back down the track on the approach to Rannoch Moor - this climb was quite rough but not too long

The climb soon led to some great riding over Rannoch Moor

Looking back from my lunch stop on Rannoch Moor - it doesn't get much better than this!

Looking south from near the high point of the day - it is remote country this

The route onwards down to Kingshouse is rough and steep but the ski centre road is met soon

The approach to Kingshouse is down a much easier track (the old road) with views of the Munros, Creise and Buachaille Etive Mor

Beyond the Ben... Two More Nevis Range Four Thousanders

Ben Nevis at 4409ft or 1344m is the highest mountain in Scotland and the UK. As a consequence of this the normal tourist route to the summit is busy throughout the summer but there is more to these mountains than the endless trail of stones leading from the car park near Fort William to the usually mist shrouded summit.

Head instead to the Nevis Range ski area a few miles north of Fort William on the road to Spean Bridge - gondola and mountain bike trails in summer - and two more Scottish "four thousanders" are easily accessible without following any crowds - I saw only a dozen or so people once I'd left the gondola station behind. These summits - both Munros - are Aonach Mor (1221m/4006ft) which rises directly above the ski area and the more remote Aonach Beag (1234m/4049ft) that overlooks the upper reaches of Glen Nevis and the normally unseen side of the Ben.

The gondola ride (which cost £12 return) is a worthwhile activity in itself especially with kids or if you're not feeling particularly energetic and it took me over the forest and the open mountainside

above to a height of 2150ft and some awesome views of the Western Highlands. It's worth mentioning that a couple of mountain bike trails leave from here - the red downhill which looks awesome and which I might attempt next time and the suicidal looking World champs downhill which I'll definitely not be attempting - it's a steep black descent with big rocks and jumps so only for experts!

There is a viewpoint a short distance from the top station that's well worth a visit so after this I set off to climb Aonach Mor which is the eighth highest mountain in Scotland and the UK:

Returning to the station I followed the wide track roughly south going under a chair lift - these only run in the ski season - and approaching the edge of the plateau where I branched off left and uphill before reaching another viewpoint. The going was fairly hard at first as there is no real path for the lower section but I headed up to the right of the ski lifts. Soon though a faint path appeared and

became more distinct as I got higher, passing the building marking the top of the chairlift and then reaching the top of the ski area itself. Here I sheltered from the cold wind behind a hut - it was only 3-4 degrees above freezing and snow showers were forecast at this height despite it being July.

Ahead the path led out across the tundra landscape of the high plateau that makes up the top of Aonach Mor. It is really a very wide ridge leading south and "Big Ridge" is the translation of the Gaelic name. With views of the unfamiliar side of Ben Nevis looking distinctly alpine to my right I crossed this high barren looking plateau without climbing very much to reach my first summit which was marked by a large cairn 4006 feet above the sea which was visible away beyond Ben Nevis. Ahead the ridge narrowed a little before

rising up to Aonach Beag - "The Little Ridge which is actually slightly higher.

My way led down an easy slope on a wide path to the bealach or col between the two peaks where deep drifts of snow filled the eastern corrie. Aonach Beag rose imposingly ahead and from here looked as though some scrambling might be needed to reach it but aside from being steep and rocky the way was easy and passed an interesting feature that reminded me of a mini Napes Needle for those familiar with Great Gable in the Lake District. On most mountains at the point where you think the top is near it comes into sight still a long way off but here, as the path begins to level out, the summit is revealed just ahead and the views to the South of which we've seen only tantalizing glimpses are revealed in full.

From this lofty vantage point the eye was drawn to the mysterious ridges of the Grey Corries in the East and over the wilderness of Rannoch Moor. Closer at hand the ridge of the Mamores was seen across the depths of Glen Nevis while the Ben itself towered just to the West, its peak in cloud.

Heading back, Aonach Mor appeared of gentler character though a journey along the eastern edge of the plateau between the summit and the ski area reveals vast sheer cliffs falling to a beautiful lochan or tarn far below - an aspect of the mountain completely unseen from the ski area. Having paused to admire these views I returned to the top of the ski area just as the weather began to clear and headed down to the warmer zones below where it was still summer.

This route contains no difficulties under "summer" conditions though in bad visibility it's important

to remember that the wide easy ridge of Aonach Mor has steep drops along both sides as does Aonach Beag. There is a route off to the west from the bealach between the two Munros to the lower gap (822m) between here and Ben Nevis with acess to Glen Nevis or the north. Only attempt this in bad visibility if you know it. Equally a route ascends Aonach Beag from Glen Nevis but I've not done it - that side of the mountain is precipitous and of alpine scale so again research those routes before attempting!

The other "four thousander" in this area is Carn Mor Dearg (1220m/4003ft) immediately north of the Ben which is normally ascended as part of the Carn Mor Dearg Arete route to Ben Nevis. It crosses an exposed ridge but is a walk rather than a climb and descent is made via the normal tourist route. I did it some years ago but don't have photos - if I do that one again I'll post it here as it's way better than trudging up and down the Pony Track. As for the walk described here; its 12km or a shade under 8 miles return from the top gondola station and has almost 900m/3000ft of ascent and descent. Not using the gondola adds 600m/2000ft and makes for a much longer outing. More from this Scottish trip here soon...

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Pete Buckley July 2015

The eastern side of Aonach Mor is of a different character to that seen from the gondola

The wild looking terrain on the far side of Aonach Mor unseen from the ski area

Looking back down to the Nevis Range ski area from its upper reaches

A Short Hike in the Highlands - Bridge of Orchy to Beinn Dorain

During moments of clear weather as one heads north along the A82 from Tyndrum towards Rannoch Moor and Glencoe, a vast pyramid shaped mountain makes its presence felt ahead towering above the small hamlet of Bridge of Orchy. More often than not all you will see is mist and rain but the peak is called Beinn Dorain and is a Munro of over 3500 feet in height. Along with Ben More above nearby Crianlarich, I'd had a mind to climb the mountain for some time having driven past it many times so one fine day in summer I stopped at Bridge of Orchy instead of driving past...

From opposite the free car park by the hotel a lane leads up past the railway station and under the line where the West Highland Way path is crossed. That much celebrated trail leads north into the vast

emptiness of Rannoch Moor but my way was east, along a path that followed a stream that here tumbled down from the mountains. The sun shone warmly as I followed the good trail towards the bealach or col that connects Beinn Dorain and Beinn an Dothaidh - the peaks that make up the barrier like mountain wall east of Bridge of Orchy. At my back was the wooded Glen Orchy while away off to the north the Blackmount Range rose above Rannoch Moor. I read somewhere that the Scottish Highlands is the least populated area of Europe and looking at this view that's very believable. The slope was gradual and the terrain gentle as I crossed the heather and grass moorland towards the mountain and presently as it was

My way now led to the right or south; up over some rocky slabs which had an alpine feel to them in places and led to another higher tarn with some amazing views over Rannoch Moor to the Blackmount, the Glencoe Hills and distant Ben Nevis. From here there is no sign of the soaring pyramid shape of Beinn Dorain seen from the road and instead the path crossed a moorland plateau before ascending again to where there were signs of things to come. From this top you can head straight on over the plateau towards Beinn Dorain but I opted to follow the path to the right that skirted the edge of the vast drop to Bridge of Orchy.

This path very soon became interesting - exciting even - as it contoured along just beneath the top of the western face of the mountain with steep drops to the valley and the road where I could see my start point by the hotel almost 3000 feet down. Nowhere was the trail hazardous but I was always conscious of the vast gulf of air to my right. After crossing a small boulder field - the only place you have to look for the trail - I climbed up a short steep section to reach what felt like the end of the earth. The mountain didn't go any further and I was looking down the defile towards Tyndrum from where I had viewed this peak so many times. After admiring the view a short while I followed the trail as it doubled back a short distance to the actual summit which I had actually passed just earlier.

The way back was the same though you can follow the path on from the summit back to the north though the ascent route has to be one of the best routes to a summit in the area. The Munro bagger has the opportunity for a quick and easy ascent of Beinn an Dothaidh too by carrying straight on at the lower tarn whereas my route was left down into Coire an Dothaidh. In all a hike of 12km or a bit under 8 miles if you go back the same way with no deviations. The high point is Beinn Dorain at 1076m or about 3530ft and the start point is just by the Bridge of Orchy hotel at 150m (about 500ft) or the train station if you have arrived by train or on the West Highland Way.

An Adventure in the Colorado Rockies - part two - Grays Peak and Mt Evans

The sharp grating noise from the floor of my hire car brought to mind nightmarish words such as excesses and clauses and something about not driving on 4 wheel drive roads. Its significance here was that the Steven's Gulch Road had won this particular battle and that I'd now need to turn around without going over the edge. I managed this with less difficulty than the initial panic might have suggested and soon found myself back at a parking area about half way up the track near to Josephine Mine. Some guidebooks and websites say that you can drive this road in an ordinary vehicle and some say you can't. In the absence of a united front on either side I will say that if you value your car - don't try!

I'd left Interstate 70 at junction 221 for Bakerville back down in the valley and driven up the winding dirt track through the pines, passing a parking area before reaching a section that more resembled a dry river bed than a road - rocks, ruts, the lot! It was this short section that had defeated me and so I set out from the lower car park to walk to the Grays Peak trailhead.

I'd been going only 10 or 15 minutes when I heard a car coming up the track behind me so I instinctively stuck out a thumb in hope. The car turned out to be a jeep and I was soon chatting to 2two guys from one of the New England universities - though I can't remember which one it was - as we drove up to the trailhead. I was pleased to see that even in a Jeep the driver took great care on the part that had caused me problems so at least I hadn't bottled it for no reason.

Setting out on the trail to Grays Peak

The trailhead is at a height of about 11200 feet, just on the tree line, and the three of us set off together. The path was obvious and easy to follow, leading up a wide valley towards the snow covered Grays and Torreys Peaks at its head. One of my companions was a sports instructor at the college, specialising in coaching hockey and it soon became apparent that they were somewhat fitter than I was so rather than hold them up; I suggested they carry on and we meet up at the top. They carried on up the trail and I followed at a slightly easier pace - after all, we were at over 11000 feet here! The trail which had risen gently up to now began to climb more steeply as I neared the end of the long wide valley. I headed firstly up steep heathery slopes before veering more to the left over rocky terrain near a shallow col. Heading up and away from the col and leaving the valley's confines, I found myself in a huge stony bowl in the mountainside as the track levelled out a little. The upper walls of this cirque were formed by the high crags and snowfields of Grays and Torreys Peaks still far above. I could just make out ant like figures picking their way across the snow just under the ridgeline. I set off up the trail again after a rest, spotting a lone mountain goat by the side of the track. There were a few people about today, but it's a popular route and the weather was warm and settled, unlike on some of my other walks in Colorado on this trip.

Looking roughly west from the summit of Grays Peak

Back to the matter in hand and I continued up the zigzag path as it began cutting through wide snowfields which stretched down the bouldery slopes. I could now see far beyond the valley as the view opened out more the higher I went. Further up and level with the col linking Grays with its neighbour Torreys. Not much air up here - ten steps - stop for a breather - not far now. I was fairly well acclimatised and had no ill effects but here at 14000 feet, my legs would only go at half normal speed.

There ahead were the two guys who'd started the hike with me just below the top which I reached only just after them. Hare and tortoise hey! Perhaps they were fitter than me but maybe not as used to the altitude as I'd thought.The summit of Grays Peak at 14270 feet or 4349m is the highest point on the Continental Divide or main ridge of the Rocky Mountains and the view is befitting for such a place. Beyond thefar off plains of South Park rose the even more distant lone summit of Pikes Peak. Moving round to the west, passing the long snowy line of peaks topped by Mt Elbert, the highest in

At 14270 feet Grays is the highest point of the Continental Divide

the Rockies at 4399m, Lake Dillon where I'd been staying for the past few days came in to view beyond the continuing divide ridge. To the North, lay great forests with the Indian Peaks heading up towards Rocky Mountain National Park while east of us and closer to hand was the Mt Evans range. We were surrounded by a sea of summits, all seemingly below. Only Torreys Peak seemed to approach our height, its snowy flanks leading the eye down to the valley where the Interstate crossed the Rockies at the Eisenhower Tunnel far below...

My last couple of days in Colorado saw me back at Idaho Springs where I'd started. The town was handy for my drive to Denver airport to fly home while still being surrounded by magnificent forest and mountain scenery. Just to the south of the town lies Mount Evans, one of the Rockies' highest peaks and home of the highest paved road in North America. Yes - even higher than Pikes Peak.

I'd driven part way up on the way back and had had an afternoon walk from the parking at the top of the Goliath Trail over open tundra to the summit of Rogers Peak at 13391 ft. It was a lonely summit of stones rising above the short tundra grass and was reached by a three mile round trip from the

Mt Evans in better weather seen from Rogers Peak

road. The weather was clear and views had extended far out across the plains towards Kansas as well as along the Front Range (the eastern rim of the Rockies) north towards Longs Peak in the National Park. Today though, the weather wasn't quite so promising with storms forecast for later and as I left town by highway 103, the Squaw Pass Road, I decided to alter plans to be off the mountain before the bad weather arrived. I'd planned to go to Echo Lake at 10600 ft and one of the nicest spots in the area to hike up the Chicago Lakes Trail to Summit Lake at 12800 feet before ascending the peak but after stopping at Echo Lake decided to head on. I'd drive to Summit Lake and go up from there. It is still a recognised ascent unlike driving to the top of the road and walking the last quarter mile to the summit which is cheating! It was a shame about the weather as Chicago Lakes looked a good route - it was a full day up and down though.

The realities of the weather setting out from Summit Lake

The mountain could be seen through the pines, partly obscured by cloud as I left the lake and the morning sun broke through higher up the road though huge clouds boiled up over the plains to the east. Well above the timberline at Summit Lake it was cold and breezy. That morning the summit temperature had been 10 Fahrenheit or minus 12 Celsius and that was less than 1500 feet above now.

Donning coat, hat and gloves I set off. The usual route goes nearly straight up the steep slope to the summit car park but huge snowdrifts by the roadside made this rather awkward so I followed the road itself up until just before the first bend where I set off up the steep mountainside to my right. Only one car had passed me on my walk up the road - a truck loaded with bikes. I managed however, to avoid walking on the road again as I made my way steadily upwards finding the going easier than expected - I must have been properly acclimatised by now. OK I wasn't about to sprint up the slope but at least I could keep a steady pace and not stop for a rest every 2 minutes.

The ruins of the observatory on Mt Evans

Mt Bierstadt – another fourteener - appeared level with me across a deep wild valley. The cloud continued to build ominously and the Sun had vanished behind a high grey layer but it remained fine on Mt Evans if chilly - the ground frozen iron hard by the wind. Crossing an area of shattered grey rocks and a small snowfield I presently arrived at the summit car park and walked past the ruined Summit Hotel - never rebuilt after a destructive fire - and the grey hump of the observatory. I remembered meeting this guy who'd had his wedding reception at this hotel when it was still open, only to have to reconvene back down in Idaho Springs when half of the guests passed out from altitude sickness!

The road is a feat of engineering but I'm not sure I like the idea of driving up to places like this. It must be awful on a busy day with traffic jams and crowds - exactly the things many of us come up to

The summit of Mt Evans at 14264 ft

avoid to say nothing of the danger of ascending quickly to 14000 feet. Today though there were no crowds, just the one truck and some very cold looking cyclists preparing for an even colder descent. Their driver informed me that I was the only one to climb Mt Evans that day.

Onwards up a shallow bank of snow on the far side of the car park and a stony trail led me in 5 or 10 minutes to the summit rocks. As I scrambled up a pair of eyes belonging to a brown furry face stared at me before vacating the highest rock and disappearing under another nearby. At 14264 feet I'd almost certainly just met America's Highest Marmot! The

It was time to go before the weather got any worse

approaching weather made the view dramatic if not distant and after taking a few photos I too left this cold and lofty place to the marmots and the rising wind...

If you missed part one it's right here