Showing posts with label scotland. Show all posts
Showing posts with label scotland. Show all posts

Monday, 14 August 2017

A Short Adventure in Scotland - Ben Lawers and the Glen Ogle Trail


Once upon a time on a family holiday to the Highlands I hiked up Ben Lawers with Dad - we went up the normal route from the National Trust for Scotland car park - a route which has the unfortunate reputation for being crowded in the summer months - to stand on the highest point in Tayside and the highest peak in the country south of Ben Nevis. As I recall there were a fair few tourists heading up the hill but despite that it was still a good day out.
Rainbow at Strathyre

One of the reasons this route is popular is the fact that the start point is almost 500 metres above sea level and leaves an ascent completely free of difficulty to the summit which at 1214m or 3984ft would be a much longer undertaking - if still an easy one - from the shores of Loch Tay.

So it was that after a drive in the rain from my campsite at Strathyre, stopping off to see the Falls of Dochart in Killin; there are some things that are better in this weather - I arrived at the infamous visitor centre which turned out not to be there. Apparently the building was demolished a few years back and the site returned to the wild. There is still a car park - on the other side of the road - and information about the area but if you're after a coffee it's back into Killin! Personally I think it's better now as I remember
The start of the path
the old place being very busy. Anyway - it's is on the mountain road between Loch Tay and the Bridge of Balgie over the hill in isolated Glen Lyon. With the weather as it was there was no sign of any crowds today, and the rain had stopped so I prepared to set off. Two footpaths are signposted from here; one to Ben Lawers and another to Meall nan Tarmachan - the start of the Tarmachan Ridge route which I'll do next time if we get some good weather up here.

The route I followed is initially through the nature reserve on a path known as the Edramucky Trail where can be seen a wide range of arctic alpine type flora and fauna which thrives in this area protected from deer and grazing sheep. The trees too are returning and I was amazed to see trees at around 2000 feet above sea level this far north - a height level with the highest parts of Dartmoor or the Peak District.
The last of the trees

The route from the nature reserve - far from being crowded - was extremely enjoyable and is clearly marked all the way to the summit. In fact I had planned a more varied route involving Beinn Ghlas and Meall Corranaich but as the weather made a return in the form of heavy showers and hill fog, I opted to remain on the main path. Beyond the wooded area, the path climbs past some old shepherds' huts known as shielings and turns sharply to the left up the grassy valley of Coire Odhar. At this point the path via Beinn Ghlas carries straight on but I followed the broad trail to the bealach or col at the head of Coire Odhar which is at about 850 metres.

The col is in a fine position with the path heading through towards the Glen Lyon side and the summit route continuing its steady climb to the right without losing much height. I had wanted to
Meall nan Tarmachan
head up the nearby Munro, Meall Corranaich which rises on the other (western) side of the col on my return to this point though this was not to happen due to the deteriorating weather. The far side was sheltered from the wind for a while but the rain now came down again and mist obscured the summit ahead. This section of path though is remarkably easy following the contours of the hill in a gentle ascent to about 1000 metres re crossing the main ridge of the Ben Lawers group this time overlooking Loch Tay - or would have done if you could see it.

Here one rejoins the route coming over Beinn Ghlas which is the one we followed that first time in these hills and begins the final climb up to Ben Lawers. Again the route is nowhere difficult but this is the first part that seems like hard work as the path climbs steeply up the final slopes which today were battered by Westerly gales bringing rain and increasing cold as height was gained. The Met Office website had informed me to expect temperatures of 3 or 4 Celsius at this altitude with
The col at about 850 metres 
windchill down to -4 which is just twenty five for those of you on the other scale. Bearing in mind that it was late July, it just goes to show the value of being prepared in the Highlands! I have seen it snow in August at this height in the Cairngorms and but it felt much colder today on Ben Lawers.

A short rest on the summit with lunch behind the cairn and sheltered from the wind was a welcome relief from the wind and rain but it was not a place to linger today so I was soon heading back down the way I had come to the warmer climes below. The short film below gives some idea of the conditions encountered on this walk - perhaps the day was better suited to looking at the region's waterfalls.

The following morning I had planned a return to the hills above Killin and Loch Tay, to climb Meall
Loch Earn seen from the cycle path
nan Tarmachan and follow the Tarmachan Ridge route back to the non existent visitor centre but I awoke to the rain beating on the roof of my Berlingo Camper and such plans gradually evaporated as the weather failed to clear. The Tarmachan Ridge is apparently not difficult but is exciting with some scrambles and is more of an undertaking than simply following a wide path as I had done to Ben Lawers. I figured that being able to at least see the route ahead would be an advantage here! A plan to head up Ben Lui was likewise put on hold til the next time. Besides, boots and socks had not dried out from yesterday's venture and while I had spare clothes I didn't have a spare pair of boots.

Instead, during a lull in the weather, I got on my bike and headed to the old railway track that heads through Glen Ogle in the direction of Killin. It's a track I've done before and is one of my favourite
Lochan Lairig Cheile at the top of Glen Ogle
rides anywhere. Here's a full account of the Glen Ogle Cycle Path with photos from my last visit but I have added a video of the ride below along with a short clip of the Falls of Dochart in Killin and my walk up Ben Lawers.

The track itself is part of the National Cycle Network Route 7 aka the northern half of the Lochs and Glens Route from Glasgow to Inverness. The section north from Lochearnhead through Glen Ogle over the old railway viaducts is one of the highlights of that route and from Strathyre to Lochearnhead isn't bad either all being off road with some nice forest trails around Balquhidder. Incidentally, the ride south from Strathyre is also highly recommended; the first night here I rode down along the shore of Loch Lubnaig as far as the Falls of Leny (close to Callander) but failed to take a camera so you'll have to take my word for it. In all the whole way from Callander to Killin is on traffic free paths and would make a fine day out - well it would in better weather.

On this trip I stayed at the Immervoulin campsite at Strathyre which I can highly recommend - facilities are excellent and it's a big open field with plenty of room to camp - I'll be back soon. Finally here are the videos from the trip - I've overcome the difficulties of filming from a moving bike without falling off but we're still working on getting the sound better for all weather filming - probably need to invest in a decent mic for starters...






Monday, 21 September 2015

A Short Ride in the Highlands - Lochearnhead and Glen Ogle


cycling the glen ogle path
Between Strathyre and Killin and to the north of Callander lies a bike trail that despite being short, ranks among the best rides I've done. A walk along here a few years ago actually prompted me to take up cycling again after a ten year absence due to busy roads though it was only recently that I finally got to ride it. As well as being a section of the Rob Roy Way, this trail is part of a much longer National Cycle Network route linking Glasgow and Inverness with this ride being from Strathyre up over the viaducts to the Glen Ogle car park on the forested ridge just south of Killin. As with my West Highland Way outing I had
to do this in both directions but I'm not complaining there.

The rain was just about holding off as I left Strathyre; just after the bridge a bike track led northwards beside the river and soon brought me to Balquhidder on a good trail that is at first flat then undulating as it heads through woodlands. There's a short section beside the A84 but you're not riding on the road and for the most part it's a quiet trail. As Lochearnhead is approached the route starts becoming more interesting and there's a dip down to the lowest point of the day at about 120m/400ft where the river flowing into Loch Earn is crossed on
the lochs and glens route
a viaduct then an iron bridge above thick woodland. After this is a steep climb of almost 100 metres by a switchback track to rejoin the old railway track and head up Glen Ogle - the most spectacular section - at an easy gradient.

At first  stunning views of Loch Earn and the surrounding hills are revealed through the trees stretching away eastwards then an increasingly wild Glen Ogle is followed with the road far below as the pastoral country around Locearnhead is left. The highlight of the route are the original railway viaducts which are crossed above boulder strewn slopes while mossy streams fall from the mountainside up to the left. Despite the rugged terrain and often precipitous drops to the valley, the path remains easy all the way
cycling in the highlands
and is suitable for kids and road bikes. The sides too are well fenced against cyclists going over the edge!

Soon the trail enters more of a gully in deep woodland (an old railway cutting blasted through the rock) and heads under an old bridge before the road is reached again. Just off to the left and seen through the trees is the water of Lochan Lairig Cheile then the road is crossed. The highest point of the route (about 315m/1030ft) is reached on the short section of path between here and the car park which was as far as I went due to forecast storms. This ride was 14.5km/9 miles so far and it's another 6km/4 miles on to Killin but you'll have the hill to ride back up again if returning to Stratheyre but on balance Killin and the Falls
cycle path from lochearnhead to killin
Spectacular viaducts in the upper part of Glen Ogle
of Dochart are well worth it.

As for me all that remained was an effortless mainly downhill ride to Lochearnhead and the easy trail to Strathyre. I'll definitely come back an do a longer section of this as after Killin the route follows the full length of Loch Tay past the mighty Ben Lawers - pure joy!






lochearnhead to glen ogle
Lochan Lairig Cheile near the end of the ride

Finally, below is a video I made on a more recent visit, riding down the trail over the viaducts - the weather wasn't so good though!

  Glen Ogle

Friday, 28 August 2015

Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse - the West Highland Way on a Bike...

The West Highland Way is an iconic trail leading almost 100 miles from Milngavie near Glasgow to Fort William at the foot of Ben Nevis through some of the finest scenery in Scotland. The route is a long distance hiking trail not a cycle path and I have read reports of people having to carry bikes for long distances over part of the route along the eastern shore of Loch Lomond. This section though was all rideable by mountain bike if pretty rough in places.

The section I chose to ride here is possibly the wildest and remotest part of the whole route, crossing the wilderness of Rannoch Moor between Bridge of Orchy and Kingshouse in Glen Etive. It's worth noting that there is no shelter and in bad weather it's probably a good idea to think twice before setting out on foot or on a bike. I rode the route in both directions as I had to return to my car at Glenorchy and covered 40k or about 25 miles with the lowest point (150m/500ft) at Bridge of Orchy; and the highest point (450m/1500ft) on Rannoch Moor just before the Glencoe Ski Centre.

The last descent to Kingshouse consequently had to be reversed uphill - something I was aware of as I sped happily down it - but the ride south from the high point to Inveroran was nearly all downhill with some exhilarating descents that made all the effort worthwhile. Beyond Kingshouse the WHW continues to the Devil's Staircase - a steep pass at about 550m/1850ft - before descending to sea level at Kinlochleven 9 miles on while south of my start point it's an easy looking path for 7 miles to Tyndrum.

One notable advantage of being on a bike in the Highlands - aside of course from the stunning views - is that that you are faster than the midges and so avoid their efforts to turn you into a meal. They were not so bad today owing to wind and showers but last time I rode from Kingshouse, hikers were being subjected to sustained attacks while I on my trusty steed remained immune - had to keep going though! Here's the day's route in pictures...

the river orchy from the west highland way
The route from the car park by the hotel first crosses the stone bridge over the River Orchy that gives the village its name

cycling in the highlands
Views from the minor road that leads from Bridge of Orchy to Inveroran - it just keeps getting better!

west highland way at inveroran
The end of the road - after Inveroran the track becomes rougher as it begins the climb up over Rannoch Moor

mountain biking in the highlands
Looking back down the track on the approach to Rannoch Moor - this climb was quite rough but not too long

mountain biking in scotland
The climb soon led to some great riding over Rannoch Moor


mountain biking in scotland
Looking back from my lunch stop on Rannoch Moor - it doesn't get much better than this!

mountain biking in the scottish highlands
Looking south from near the high point of the day - it is remote country this

buachaille etive mor from the west highland way
The route onwards down to Kingshouse is rough and steep but the ski centre road is met soon
views from the west highland way
The approach to Kingshouse is down a much easier track (the old road) with views of the Munros, Creise and Buachaille Etive Mor

Monday, 10 August 2015

Beyond the Ben... Two More Nevis Range Four Thousanders

Ben Nevis at 4409ft or 1344m is the highest mountain in Scotland and the UK. As a consequence of this the normal tourist route to the summit is busy throughout the summer but there is more to these mountains than the endless trail of stones leading from the car park near Fort William to the usually mist shrouded summit.

the far side of ben nevis
Head instead to the Nevis Range ski area a few miles north of Fort William on the road to Spean Bridge - gondola and mountain bike trails in summer - and two more Scottish "four thousanders" are easily accessible without following any crowds - I saw only a dozen or so people once I'd left the gondola station behind. These summits - both Munros - are Aonach Mor (1221m/4006ft) which rises directly above the ski area and the more remote Aonach Beag (1234m/4049ft) that overlooks the upper reaches of Glen Nevis and the normally unseen side of the Ben.

The gondola ride (which cost £12 return) is a worthwhile activity in itself especially with kids or if you're not feeling particularly energetic and it took me over the forest and the open mountainside
above to a height of 2150ft and some awesome views of the Western Highlands. It's worth mentioning that a couple of mountain bike trails leave from here - the red downhill which looks awesome and which I might attempt next time and the suicidal looking World champs downhill which I'll definitely not be attempting - it's a steep black descent with big rocks and jumps so only for experts!

There is a viewpoint a short distance from the top station that's well worth a visit so after this I set off to climb Aonach Mor which is the eighth highest mountain in Scotland and the UK:

Returning to the station I followed the wide track roughly south going under a chair lift - these only run in the ski season - and approaching the edge of the plateau where I branched off left and uphill before reaching another viewpoint. The going was fairly hard at first as there is no real path for the lower section but I headed up to the right of the ski lifts. Soon though a faint path appeared and
the mamores seen across glen nevis
became more distinct as I got higher, passing the building marking the top of the chairlift and then reaching the top of the ski area itself. Here I sheltered from the cold wind behind a hut - it was only 3-4 degrees above freezing and snow showers were forecast at this height despite it being July.

Ahead the path led out across the tundra landscape of the high plateau that makes up the top of Aonach Mor. It is really a very wide ridge leading south and "Big Ridge" is the translation of the Gaelic name. With views of the unfamiliar side of Ben Nevis looking distinctly alpine to my right I crossed this high barren looking plateau without climbing very much to reach my first summit which was marked by a large cairn 4006 feet above the sea which was visible away beyond Ben Nevis. Ahead the ridge narrowed a little before
looking south from aonach beag nevis range
rising up to Aonach Beag - "The Little Ridge which is actually slightly higher.

My way led down an easy slope on a wide path to the bealach or col between the two peaks where deep drifts of snow filled the eastern corrie. Aonach Beag rose imposingly ahead and from here looked as though some scrambling might be needed to reach it but aside from being steep and rocky the way was easy and passed an interesting feature that reminded me of a mini Napes Needle for those familiar with Great Gable in the Lake District. On most mountains at the point where you think the top is near it comes into sight still a long way off but here, as the path begins to level out, the summit is revealed just ahead and the views to the South of which we've seen only tantalizing glimpses are revealed in full.

hiking the munros in the scottish highlands
From this lofty vantage point the eye was drawn to the mysterious ridges of the Grey Corries in the East and over the wilderness of Rannoch Moor. Closer at hand the ridge of the Mamores was seen across the depths of Glen Nevis while the Ben itself towered just to the West, its peak in cloud.

Heading back, Aonach Mor appeared of gentler character though a journey along the eastern edge of the plateau between the summit and the ski area reveals vast sheer cliffs falling to a beautiful lochan or tarn far below - an aspect of the mountain completely unseen from the ski area. Having paused to admire these views I returned to the top of the ski area just as the weather began to clear and headed down to the warmer zones below where it was still summer.

This route contains no difficulties under "summer" conditions though in bad visibility it's important
munros of the scottish highlands the grey corries
to remember that the wide easy ridge of Aonach Mor has steep drops along both sides as does Aonach Beag. There is a route off to the west from the bealach between the two Munros to the lower gap (822m) between here and Ben Nevis with acess to Glen Nevis or the north. Only attempt this in bad visibility if you know it. Equally a route ascends Aonach Beag from Glen Nevis but I've not done it - that side of the mountain is precipitous and of alpine scale so again research those routes before attempting!

The other "four thousander" in this area is Carn Mor Dearg (1220m/4003ft) immediately north of the Ben which is normally ascended as part of the Carn Mor Dearg Arete route to Ben Nevis. It crosses an exposed ridge but is a walk rather than a climb and descent is made via the normal tourist route. I did it some years ago but don't have photos - if I do that one again I'll post it here as it's way better than trudging up and down the Pony Track. As for the walk described here; its 12km or a shade under 8 miles return from the top gondola station and has almost 900m/3000ft of ascent and descent. Not using the gondola adds 600m/2000ft and makes for a much longer outing. More from this Scottish trip here soon...
>>> or check us out on Twitter

Pete Buckley July 2015
nevis range ski area spean bridge
The eastern side of Aonach Mor is of a different character to that seen from the gondola

The wild looking terrain on the far side of Aonach Mor unseen from the ski area

Looking back down to the Nevis Range ski area from its upper reaches






Friday, 12 June 2015

A Short Hike in the Highlands - Bridge of Orchy to Beinn Dorain

During moments of clear weather as one heads north along the A82 from Tyndrum towards Rannoch Moor and Glencoe, a vast pyramid shaped mountain makes its presence felt ahead towering above the small hamlet of Bridge of Orchy. More often than not all you will see is mist and rain but the peak is called Beinn Dorain and is a Munro of over 3500 feet in height. Along with Ben More above nearby Crianlarich, I'd had a mind to climb the mountain for some time having driven past it many times so one fine day in summer I stopped at Bridge of Orchy instead of driving past...

From opposite the free car park by the hotel a lane leads up past the railway station and under the line where the West Highland Way path is crossed. That much celebrated trail leads north into the vast
hiking from glen orchy scotland
emptiness of Rannoch Moor but my way was east, along a path that followed a stream that here tumbled down from the mountains. The sun shone warmly as I followed the good trail towards the bealach or col that connects Beinn Dorain and Beinn an Dothaidh - the peaks that make up the barrier like mountain wall east of Bridge of Orchy. At my back was the wooded Glen Orchy while away off to the north the Blackmount Range rose above Rannoch Moor. I read somewhere that the Scottish Highlands is the least populated area of Europe and looking at this view that's very believable. The slope was gradual and the terrain gentle as I crossed the heather and grass moorland towards the mountain and presently as it was

My way now led to the right or south; up over some rocky slabs which had an alpine feel to them in places and led to another higher tarn with some amazing views over Rannoch Moor to the Blackmount, the Glencoe Hills and distant Ben Nevis. From here there is no sign of the soaring pyramid shape of Beinn Dorain seen from the road and instead the path crossed a moorland plateau before ascending again to where there were signs of things to come. From this top you can head straight on over the plateau towards Beinn Dorain but I opted to follow the path to the right that skirted the edge of the vast drop to Bridge of Orchy.
lochan between beinn dorain and beinn an dothaidh

This path very soon became interesting - exciting even - as it contoured along just beneath the top of the western face of the mountain with steep drops to the valley and the road where I could see my start point by the hotel almost 3000 feet down. Nowhere was the trail hazardous but I was always conscious of the vast gulf of air to my right. After crossing a small boulder field - the only place you have to look for the trail - I climbed up a short steep section to reach what felt like the end of the earth. The mountain didn't go any further and I was looking down the defile towards Tyndrum from where I had viewed this peak so many times. After admiring the view a short while I followed the trail as it doubled back a short distance to the actual summit which I had actually passed just earlier.
mountain lochan in the highlands

The way back was the same though you can follow the path on from the summit back to the north though the ascent route has to be one of the best routes to a summit in the area. The Munro bagger has the opportunity for a quick and easy ascent of Beinn an Dothaidh too by carrying straight on at the lower tarn whereas my route was left down into Coire an Dothaidh. In all a hike of 12km or a bit under 8 miles if you go back the same way with no deviations. The high point is Beinn Dorain at 1076m or about 3530ft and the start point is just by the Bridge of Orchy hotel at 150m (about 500ft) or the train station if you have arrived by train or on the West Highland Way.

near rthe summit of Beinn dorain bridge of orchy

scottish highland panorama

Looking south from beinn dorain

north from beinn dorain central highlands

Friday, 9 July 2010

Biking the 7 Stanes - On the Big Country Trail

It seemed to have rained for days but not today - the sun shone warmly and we'd made a good start along the forest road. With little effort we maintained something over 40 km/h as the summer breeze brought out the scents from the surrounding woodland and meadow. The gradient was a gentle downhill with our momentum carrying us over the small uphill sections of the single track lane as we sped from light to shade under the trees. I was glad of our good start because it wasn't always going to be this easy.
The 7 stanes big country trail in galloway

The Big Country Trail is a 58km circular mountain bike trail from Glen Trool in the Galloway Forest Park of south western Scotland and I was riding it today with Josh, my 11 year old son. The route is maintained by the Forestry Commission as one of their "7 Stanes" mountain bike trails and follows partly off road trails with some sections on quiet roads such as the one we were on now. The main challenge of riding the Big Country Track is one of hills and distance rather than technical difficulties.

Our first challenge came not with a climb or rough descent though but in the small town of Minnigaff just outside Gatehouse of Fleet. If there was a sign for the Big Country Route - marked in purple here - we missed it and ended up on a busier road - the B7079. at least it had a cycle path at the side and we soon were able to take a left onto the A712 signposted New Galloway which was again quiet and began to climb steadily into the Galloway Hills which rose invitingly ahead. A look at the map revealed that we could rejoin our route a little further on. I wanted to get to grips with the off road but Josh preferred the road if it wasn't busy. It would mean that we would end up doing extra distance but it would be easier riding.

Gatehouse of Fleet was now left well behind and the forest pressed in on both sides of the road. We had been climbing steadily though not at a hard gradient and after we passed one of the entrances to Kirroughtree Forest on the right we were able to leave the road. A track led off into the woods on our left and climbed steeply upwards bending briefly back to the left - the way we'd come - before turning back on course through the trees. Here we met another track the came up from the left to join us. This was where we'd have come out if we'd not gone wrong at Minnigaff where we should have turned left at the end of the forest road. Here we passed a sign declaring this to be the Old Edinburgh Road. I found it quite fascinating that before the tarmac road, this track was the main route north through these mountains. The horse drawn coaches would rattle along here presumably persued by the odd highwayman! It would have been remote country to travel through in those days.

We stopped for an early lunch in a wide clearing with a view of the hill called Cairnsmore of Fleet. We sat on a pile of logs that had been felled and apart from the stony track and signs of logging there was no other sign of human activity here. I'd have thought that on a day like this there would have been other cyclists orwalkers but no - we had it all to ourselves.

Onwards again and past the tiny isolated Loch of the Lowes bordered by heather and patches of trees
loch by the 7 stanes big country trail
overhanging the still water. The rough track surfaced with stones had been mainly downhill since lunch but now it climbed again in a couple of short but steep ascents. The bumpy track is harder to get any momentum going so these hills were harder than a similar climb on the road and my lower gears were tested for the first time. Josh decided after falling off again - more due to lack of speed than obstacles - that he'd rather be on the road so we decided to return to it instead of the short cut over Poultrybuie Hill and visit Clatteringshaws Loch. For now though it was the track which wound through some wonderfully remote country - no sign of houses or cars, just a vastness of heather and trees through which we rode steadily.

The track went down again and became a little less rough and we were able to make a little more speed as we reached a second small lake - The Black Loch - where the short steep way turned off to the left. That's the proper route for the Big Country Trail but Josh still preferred to head for the road. Besides we had some unavoidable mountain bike tracks to finish off with. Another couple of miles past the Black Loch on relatively level track brought us within sight of the A712 once again and we rejoined the smooth tarmac. There was hardly any traffic so I didn't object to leaving the track and we at once doubled our speed. A gentle gradient took us higher before a 60 km/h descent nearly made us overshoot the turn off to the left. The signpost was for National Cycle Route 7 again and the Glen Trool Off Road Route. Here a narrow tarmac lane passed the Clatteringshaws Dam and set off back towards the hills.

The fox hadn't spotted us - he trotted along the side of the road ahead occasionally stopping to sniff the grassy verge in the same way that a dog would. Then he must have scented or heard us as he was off into the bushes by the roadside as we approached. The road which had been gradually gaining height since leaving Clatteringshaws Dam soon descended a long hill to meet the track coming over Poultrybuie Hill from the Black Loch where a right hander at the bottom took us off the tarmac again. The rough gravel and stones of the mountain bike track led on through the heather andtrees into the wilderness that lay between here and the end of the Big Country Track at Glen Trool.
remote loch by the 7 stanes big country route

Steep climbs that tested our strength - it's best to keep going rather than stop on this rough ground - were followed by quick bone jarring descents though always we climbed higher until at something over 1000 feet - the map shows 318 metres - we came within sight of the remote Loch Dee. Away beyond the mountains rose in lines above a vast upland plateau. The very names of the hills and rivers here fired the imagination - Rig of the Jarkness, Curleywee Hill, the Rhinns of Kells, Silver Flowe - they sounded like places in a fairy tale and the landscape suited them. It was a wonderful spot.

The pass to Glen Trool could be seen clearly ahead not too far off and we set off again. The going was a bit easier now first heading down past a bothy (hut) built for fishermen on Loch Dee before a fairly easy climb to the pass itself. Here we ate the rest of our food by the Stane which is a large polished stone bearing carvedrunes - not ancient but placed by the Forestry Commission to mark one of their 7 mountain bike areas in Southern Scotland known as the 7 Stanes.

We now rode through open heathery country below rough crags as we began our desent to Glen Trool. Josh went ahead at a furious pace - his bike is more suited to the off road tracks than mine and for all his claiming to prefer the road he made a good descent of the track back into the forest. That was until he stopped at a turn off, looked round and fell off his bike again! I think I was unkind to laugh but descending the rough trail at speed uncscathed then falling off a stationary bike...

At a more leisurely pace we completed the steep forest trail to cross the bridge at the bottom. Here we were passed by 2 mountain bikers - surprisingly the first we had seen on the whole route. We followed them along the roughest section of the route so far. Large rocks and tree roots joined the effort to unseat us and the mountain bikers - but with machines more suited to such terrain - they soon disappeared ahead into the trees.

The Big country Route had a sting in the tail. The track now climbed back up at the steepest gradient we'd met all day staying rough so it was hard to get going. With the last of our strength we reached Bruce's Stone which is one of the monuments around here to Scottish hero Robert the Bruce and also the start point for the route to Merrick - Galloway's highest summit - which we'd climbed the year before.

Once back on tarmac our speed picked up and soon we saw the mountain bikers ahead. Part competitive spirit and part desire to be eating an ice cream in the cafe saw us overtake them in a kind of team persuit postion completing the last 3 miles of single track road to the car park in just over 8 minutes. The Big Country Trail must rank as one of the best days out I've had on the bike - certainly in recent times - and I'll look forward to re visiting the area and trying a few more of the bike routes. A big well done to the Forestry Commission for creating such good routes for cyclists!

Essentials >>> 36 miles/58km circular route >>> mostly forest roads >>> rough in places with big hills

Pete Buckley July 2009